Can you get lower than the “internet price”?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:The internet price is the lazy, timid shoppers price. Go in armed with info, with $$ in your hand and you will always save big $$ over the internet price. Car feeling has not changed in decades. I’m a former new car salesman btw...

10%+ off internet price across the board then?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:The internet price is the lazy, timid shoppers price. Go in armed with info, with $$ in your hand and you will always save big $$ over the internet price. Car feeling has not changed in decades. I’m a former new car salesman btw...

10%+ off internet price across the board then?

Totally depends on the car model you are looking at (how popular is it) and the dealer. When we were minivan shopping, we got wildly different offers from different dealers. When we told the high priced dealers the quotes from the low priced dealers, they told us we must be mistaken or confused, it didn’t include tax or destination or whatever. Nope, some dealers are just willing to go way lower.

I usually email 5-6 dealers in the area. Usually 2-3 I can eliminate because they are crazy high or refuse to give a price over email (ask to call you or have you come in.) Then the remaining few I got back and forth with a little. I don’t always go with the lowest price. Sometimes the second lowest price person seems easier to work with/less shady/more direct and I go with them, since it’s usually less than $500 difference.

[Anonymous]

IWe are shopping for a minivan also and I am getting the same replies-their "out the door price" is the exact MSRP or price they have listed online. I didn't think minivans were such hot sellers. I thought asking for the "out the door" price was saying, give me your best low price?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Ok humor me here. I haven’t bought a new car in several years.
Looking at a Honda Odyssey. I requested pricing online and the dealers have responded with exactly the same price, right down to the penny. Clearly they’re all in it together. How much lower can I expect to negotiate, if it all?

if it's to the penny and not MSRP, that sounds like price fixing - I'd forward to e-mails to you state AG's office

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:IWe are shopping for a minivan also and I am getting the same replies-their "out the door price" is the exact MSRP or price they have listed online. I didn't think minivans were such hot sellers. I thought asking for the "out the door" price was saying, give me your best low price?

No, “out the door” means you want to know the sales price plus all taxes and dealership fees. You have to actually ask if that is their best lowest price offer.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:IWe are shopping for a minivan also and I am getting the same replies-their "out the door price" is the exact MSRP or price they have listed online. I didn't think minivans were such hot sellers. I thought asking for the "out the door" price was saying, give me your best low price?

No, “out the door” means you want to know the sales price plus all taxes and dealership fees. You have to actually ask if that is their best lowest price offer.

Am I mistaken to think OTD=MSRP could also be a decent discount? because tax alone is ~6% and the numerous fees are another $1k+, and there’s also destination charges that could be another grand.

[Anonymous]

We went to a dealer today after quite a bit of comparing online. The dealer had an advertised price which included the dealer discount and customer cash (automaker promo). It said the dealer discount was "available to everyone". I emailed to ask if there were any particular requirement to meet the dealer discount and I was told, "No. The discount is part of the You Pay What We Pay sale going on right now".

It was a nice day, so we decided to go look. On the lot we were told, "Yes. This car is 22k... This one 23k...", which is what it showed online. We were then told we would qualify for an educator discount. "In addition to the discounts already listed?". Salesman assured us it would be in addition. Seemed pretty good.

After "running the numbers" the manager came out with a price that was about $6k higher than the $22k. The discount that "everyone qualifies for" included COSTCO, retired military and recent college grad.

[Anonymous]

for 6k, I would get the $50 costco membership, then get it refunded after you buy the car.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:for 6k, I would get the $50 costco membership, then get it refunded after you buy the car.

The cost membership probably gives you discount of $500 max. The college graduate one tends to be round $500-1000, military one is the same. Doesn't add up to 6k, so I'm guessing they padded the price quite nicely before presenting it to buyer. They do these trick to get you in the door

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:for 6k, I would get the $50 costco membership, then get it refunded after you buy the car.

The cost membership probably gives you discount of $500 max. The college graduate one tends to be round $500-1000, military one is the same. Doesn't add up to 6k, so I'm guessing they padded the price quite nicely before presenting it to buyer. They do these trick to get you in the door

...meant "Costco"...

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:We went to a dealer today after quite a bit of comparing online. The dealer had an advertised price which included the dealer discount and customer cash (automaker promo). It said the dealer discount was "available to everyone". I emailed to ask if there were any particular requirement to meet the dealer discount and I was told, "No. The discount is part of the You Pay What We Pay sale going on right now".

It was a nice day, so we decided to go look. On the lot we were told, "Yes. This car is 22k... This one 23k...", which is what it showed online. We were then told we would qualify for an educator discount. "In addition to the discounts already listed?". Salesman assured us it would be in addition. Seemed pretty good.

After "running the numbers" the manager came out with a price that was about $6k higher than the $22k. The discount that "everyone qualifies for" included COSTCO, retired military and recent college grad.

That's funny, what are the odds that you'd be both retired military and recent college grad?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:for 6k, I would get the $50 costco membership, then get it refunded after you buy the car.

The cost membership probably gives you discount of $500 max. The college graduate one tends to be round $500-1000, military one is the same. Doesn't add up to 6k, so I'm guessing they padded the price quite nicely before presenting it to buyer. They do these trick to get you in the door

They showed us $5200. That's what they were adding back in to the advertised price because we didn't qualify for military, college grade, and COSTCO. On top of that add freight, and processing (super high at almost $900).

[Anonymous]

First of all--figure out the exact car you want. I mean model, color, every option down to the floor mats and cargo net. You are not starting a negotiation, you are just test driving. Do not get involved in any discussions about buying at this point. It is too early in the month to talk about buying.

On December 27 or 28 you will write an email. List out the exact detailed specs of what you are looking for. List the prices on OdyClub in your email.

Say "I will be purchasing my vehicle no later than 12/31/20. I am looking for quotes from dealers for the very lowest price you can send me. I will be negotiating the entire deal via email and we will agree on the set price before I set foot in your dealership. If you would like to give me a quote please do so by the end of the day today."

Send the love email to 5+ dealerships. They must all be within a distance you would be willing to drive for pickup.

Do not discuss financing at all at this point. That can be discussed after you have reached an agreed upon price.

Then, read the emails you get back.
If everyone sends you the same price you are out of luck.

Let's say dealership A gives you a lower price than the others. Contact the other dealerships to see if anyone will beat it. If not, go with A. If you get someone coming in lower, you can go back to A to give them a chance to beat it.

I'd probably do a couple of rounds like that. No more than 3.

MAKE SURE you make it clear that you will not be negotiating in person.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:First of all--figure out the exact car you want. I mean model, color, every option down to the floor mats and cargo net. You are not starting a negotiation, you are just test driving. Do not get involved in any discussions about buying at this point. It is too early in the month to talk about buying.

On December 27 or 28 you will write an email. List out the exact detailed specs of what you are looking for. List the prices on OdyClub in your email.

Say "I will be purchasing my vehicle no later than 12/31/20. I am looking for quotes from dealers for the very lowest price you can send me. I will be negotiating the entire deal via email and we will agree on the set price before I set foot in your dealership. If you would like to give me a quote please do so by the end of the day today."

Send the love email to 5+ dealerships. They must all be within a distance you would be willing to drive for pickup.

Do not discuss financing at all at this point. That can be discussed after you have reached an agreed upon price.

Then, read the emails you get back.
If everyone sends you the same price you are out of luck.

Let's say dealership A gives you a lower price than the others. Contact the other dealerships to see if anyone will beat it. If not, go with A. If you get someone coming in lower, you can go back to A to give them a chance to beat it.

I'd probably do a couple of rounds like that. No more than 3.

MAKE SURE you make it clear that you will not be negotiating in person.

I used a similar method to buy a Honda Pilot Touring a few years ago. Before sending your emails, go through the dealer's inventory on its website and include the VIN number(s) of the exact car or cars that dealer has that meet your specs. While I live in NOVA, I've ended buying most of my cars in MD because MD caps the BS "Document" fee to $300 while VA dealers typically include $500 - $800 for this and claim they can't budge.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:First of all--figure out the exact car you want. I mean model, color, every option down to the floor mats and cargo net. You are not starting a negotiation, you are just test driving. Do not get involved in any discussions about buying at this point. It is too early in the month to talk about buying.

On December 27 or 28 you will write an email. List out the exact detailed specs of what you are looking for. List the prices on OdyClub in your email.

Say "I will be purchasing my vehicle no later than 12/31/20. I am looking for quotes from dealers for the very lowest price you can send me. I will be negotiating the entire deal via email and we will agree on the set price before I set foot in your dealership. If you would like to give me a quote please do so by the end of the day today."

Send the love email to 5+ dealerships. They must all be within a distance you would be willing to drive for pickup.

Do not discuss financing at all at this point. That can be discussed after you have reached an agreed upon price.

Then, read the emails you get back.
If everyone sends you the same price you are out of luck.

Let's say dealership A gives you a lower price than the others. Contact the other dealerships to see if anyone will beat it. If not, go with A. If you get someone coming in lower, you can go back to A to give them a chance to beat it.

I'd probably do a couple of rounds like that. No more than 3.

MAKE SURE you make it clear that you will not be negotiating in person.

Great advice!

Also, consider getting a temporary Google Voice telephone number to give out, unless you want to be harassed by dealerships for weeks.