Any luck getting Out-The-Door price before going to dealer.
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Anonymous
| Brown Honda gave us a price over the phone and had all documents prepared for signature when we got there. Was done in about 15 minutes. |
Anonymous
+1 you literally order a Tesla |
Anonymous
And you pay MSRP. You can do that can walk into any dealer and do the same. Somehow Tesla making $6k plus per car is ok, but the local dealer making $1200 is horrible. Explain that |
Anonymous
Not our experience with Brown...never got a straight quote. |
Anonymous
| Yes, I've done that with the last 2 cars I purchased. Move on from dealers that won't tell you. |
Anonymous
Yep, did this with both Ford and Toyota dealers. |
Anonymous
| I can’t stand car buying just for this reason. And no matter what, I feel like a sucker who paid too much. I just want one price and I want to pay cash. I can’t stand the upselling on extended warranties either. |
Anonymous
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You have to know exactly what you want for model and options, but don’t be picky on color. The eprice is useless since it often includes discounts you won’t qualify for and conflicting ones (like military and recent college grads and brand loyalty and brand switching).
Use true car to find the best market value price and then hit up all the dealerships with that car on the lot. You’re looking for the high volume low margin dealerships, not the low volume high margin ones. Tell them you’ve already test driven the vehicle and are short on time and have the paperwork ready. Have financing secured before getting there. When you get there make sure the paperwork is as agreed to. Any funny business walk out. If you feel like you must test drive it, go ahead, but this is where you lose a little control. Good luck. |
Anonymous
| I remember like 10 years ago I saw an ad for a Nissan Frontier for like $24k, so I showed up to a dealer to ask about it. Turns out they wanted $31k for the vehicle. I got them down to like $29k but it wasn't good enough and after a lot of back and forth, I walked. Hope they learned a lesson that day about false advertising costing them sales. |
Anonymous
Same. And I’m in the market for a new car soon. |
Anonymous
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OP here with a follow up. I ended up with three OTD prices. One was kind of accidental....i filled out an online request, the GM of a dealership called me immediately afterwards. I told him flat-out that I had been in touch with another dealer, he'd need to make the price worthwhile and he did. I wasn't planning to negotiate the dealerships against each other, but I ended up doing so and knowing exactly what I was paying before even doing a test drive.
I still feel like I could have shaved a little off the price but I think that's always the case with buying cars. The overwhelming number of dealers did not give me an OTD price or I was stuck "emailing with AI" or being told to "come in and let's see what we can do for you." It's a little bit luck of the draw, I guess. I plan to keep this car for at least the next decade but hopefully the process is more transparent next time I'm looking to buy. Good luck to y'all in your search |
Anonymous
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The only reason to enter a dealership is to test drive. Once you've figured out what vehicle you want - brand, trim, color, etc - you reach out to every dealership within a 100 mile radius with what you want.
Then you have a half dozen dealerships competing for your business. By text, email, calls, whatever you prefer. Under no circumstances should you walk into a dealership and drive off with a new car. |
Anonymous
I disagree. If you know the OTD price you want to pay for the exact car you want, it’s ok to go in person. You have to stick to your price and walk if they don’t accept. This is how we’ve bought last few cars. |
Anonymous
| I haven’t done this with a purchase but I’ve been able to with our last several leases. Get everything sorted over email and just show up to sign and get the keys. |
Anonymous
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I’ve done this with every car I’ve bought for the last 25 years.
The specifics have changed a little, but the basic outline remains the same. I test drive cars with no intention to buy that day. Then I research the features and decide what I must have. I also use Edmunds to determine what I should pay in my area. Then when I’m ready to buy I email dealers and tell them exactly what I am looking for and that if they have what I’m looking for and give me the right OTD price I will buy that day (or weekend or whatever). They try to get me to come in, and I say no—I won’t come in without a price. They offer a price, and I respond with a lower amount based on my pricing research. We haggle and settle on a price. I go in and buy. One thing I’ve done the last couple of times is look at inventory on individual dealer sites. I usually buy end of model year so am looking for cars that have been around a while and that they probably want to get off the lot. If a dealer has the car I want, I respond through the site. When the salesperson reaches out, I do the exact same thing—say that I am ready to buy that day/week if they can give me the right price and negotiate from there. I communicate only by email or text; I don’t do anything by phone until we’ve agreed on a price. Get the price, then walk in and buy. |