+1 Our FA does NOT charge for the money put into Cash/MM/CD/Treasuries or the 529s. They manage that for "free". But there are plenty FA who would charge something for those as well. |
When you are worth 20-30M+ it's more about trusting your FA and working well with them and knowing they are not going to nickel and dime you, and also knowing your requests are top priority. In reality, $10K/year is nothing in that net worth, so peace of mind is a key factor. |
All else being equal, it's what they charge that is important. Would you rather have a FA that does NOT charge for the money put into Cash/MM/CD/Treasuries or the 529s and charges you $10,000 or A FA who would charge something for those as well and charges $5,000? |
I am someone like that. How do I find an FA who deals with people like me? Comfortable giving your FA's name? |
|
I am not a skilled investor, or multi-millionaire, so I just put all my long term investments in a low-cost S&P 500 index fund. Shorter term is in a 6-month CD or Money Market fund. I do not pay any advisor for any of this.
If you did something similarly simple, I would think it easy to do whatever filings you need to do. |
OP, I think this thread is a great help to those who might be looking at hiring an FA, so they understand what to look for, and what to look out for. Could you come back periodically and update based on how things are going, as you transition away from the FA who put you into too many unnecessarily high fee funds? |
OP here. Yes, of course! So far, I’ve reached out to Atwood through their contact us online page but haven’t heard back. I’ll try calling them next week. If I don’t have luck with them (I don’t really want to chase them down) then I think I’m going to open an account with Schwab and see how they can help me get our money moved over. I’m going to take these steps prior to firing my FA. In the meantime, I’m going to download all of my account info, statements, everything I can find so I have it just in case I can’t access it at a later date. If funds have to be liquidated because they can’t be transferred, then I’ll ask my CPA for advice. I want to get as much as I can in order before I fire FA. Unfortunately, I had sick kids this week, so between work and caring for them, I didn’t have time to really dig in. I should be able to next week. If anyone can recommend a good and easy to follow book on investing on your own through a discount brokerage, I’d appreciate it. Looking for a book because I have a long car ride coming up for spring break with my husband and two small kids! I’ll continue to post updates as I get further in the process. Y’all have been so helpful! |
|
OP, this is an excellent point to start:
https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Main_Page Here are their book recommendations: https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Book_recommendations_and_reviews#Start-up_books |
OP, you do not need a book on investing. Someone who is legit, can give you all you need to know about it in under five minutes. You need help in financial planning. You have two appropriate paths. 1. Find an advisor through Napfa who will give you financial planning help. https://www.napfa.org/find-an-advisor# . They will also be able to help you with your issues. 2. Go to your local Fidelity office with your latest statements and have them transfer your investments to them. Your investments look like they would transfer so tax shouldn't be an issue before the transfer, but check with them. After the transfer is complete, go to step #1 - find an advisor through Napfa. (You did read up on Schwab and their cash account issue). |
|
I’ll sum up this hackneyed thread very simply.
If you have a FA you are getting ripped off. You’re welcome. |
This is clearly advertising. No client would ever write like this. When asked about what the "client" learned, they provided no information. |
We have over 50% of NW in CD/Treasuries/MM. So approaching $20M+. Not charging for that is significant. So in our situation, I'd rather not pay. And yes, it's our choice to not have those in the market---don't need to at this point. We have plenty in the market Our FA actually has to do some work with all of that, keeping the CDs below the 500K FDIC limit for a couple. I'd rather they do that than me having 25+ bank accounts to fully manage myself. When you are UHNW (or even HNW) the work your FA does for you is significantly more than when you are investing only $2M across retirement, regular and 529s. At that point, my "cash" was easily managed by me---only need 1 good bank to have Full FDIC insurance. But it becomes a pain when you need 5+ |
+1 100% agree. You don’t need a FA. |
Give me a break. You are not anywhere close to the normal poster with $20M NW even for DCUM. Congrats on achieving this UHNW. How did you do it? |
What about CDARS and/or ICS? Then you wouldn't need to manage CDs across multiple banks. |