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In the process of buying myself... reached an agreement with a dealer—but it’s not over! Now I get to go there, go thru the BS of seeing what rate they can get me, walking out because it’s not as good as my local credit union, etc etc etc....
And on top it, I find myself asking “why is a product that everyone needs, is so ubiquitous, and depreciates so rapidly, SO OVERPRICED???” And I’m not even buying a luxury brand! The auto industry has us by the you-know-what’s. |
| I find the car I want, pull up the fair purchase price, email the dealership the amount I will pay and tell them I will be in that day if they agree. It's easy and it works. I will not haggle. |
| OP here, this is all great but I'm trying to lease and the residual number matters so much more than the MSRP or cap cost. I can barely tell what I can afford by looking at the online price. |
Well if nothing else, that article made me laugh. I guess I could try it! I'm debating between three cars but I still have a year left on my lease. If I stay in the same brand I can get out of the lease. |
? you are trying to lease? what online price are you looking at? you only have to make sure you have initial down payment and can pay monthly lease payment. a lot easier than buying. |
yes, I want to walk out paying $0 and roll everything into a monthly payment. My work set me a budget of $700. So I'm trying to find a good deal. I'm looking at Q5 (I already have Audi A4, but 11 months left which Audi said they'd forgive if I get a Q5) or the RDX which I'd have to wait a year to get. I have another baby on the way and the A4 is quite small. |
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Yup. I was fortunate that the car that I wanted was available at a no-haggle dealership. I compared several dealerships for the brand and found the lowest on-line price at a no-haggle dealership and went to that dealership to purchase. I vote with my wallet. I don't spend money at a traditional dealership. I buy at a no-haggle dealership with the price I want. I think that if enough people do this, then more dealerships will convert to no-haggle pricing.
So if you hate the negotiating, stop buying from dealerships that use traditional sales techniques. |
I think they're the only ones to lease from. |
| "Our culture?" Seriously? Have you ever bought anything at a foreign market? Dont be such a pussy OP, do you give in to your kids? Did you ever rebel against your parents? |
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Meh... its easy. Go online and find out who paid what and negotiate from there. I got a Jeep and figured out 8% off invoice was the best so I emailed dealers to see who would give me that and walked in and got it. Simple.
There are also websites that you can put the VIN in and see what others are paying for that car. |
I hate doing this as well. An easy strategy I have found that has worked for my last two cars is to say there is a similar car at another dealers for x price that is in a color I like less. I’d prefer this car, but I’ll take the car in the less desirable color if they don’t match the price. |
This. The trick I use is to go there two hours before store closing, drag out the process for an hour or two (remember, if they're willing to haggle with you for 1-2 hours they can[u] go lower on price. As you get closer to closing hours, tell them thank you the time and that you'd like to resume the conversation the next day, start walking out.......and they'll give you the price you want. |
I have done this too. Last time, I found the lowest reported number online, cut a few thousand and then emailed 3 dealers that I would buy at that price that day. Worked and makes me happy. |
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Generally I've found dealers in the DC area are horrendous to deal with. Simply going into a dealer, asking for a lease quote will last over an hour. I've previously bought/leased my cars in either NY/NJ. At least for leasing I've found up there pricing is a lot more competitive and transparent, plus sales-people are easier to deal with. For the average consumer it's alot easier to find a dealer up ther that'll advertise a BMW 3 series 340/month 1k down etc. Even for someone who doesn't want to get into the details of calculating residual. money factor etc it's a pretty painless process.
For buying I took the time to read prices paid in online forums for whatever car I was interested in, then got online or truecar quotes from dealers in that area, and then choose the one that was at my target price. For example, Toyota bases their rebates based upon where the car is purchased, and last year the rebate for Priuses was $5,000 in New England, but only $4,000 down here. Only advice is NOT to use your actual cell # when you get quotes, set up a google voice number. |
| Don’t reveal too much up front. Say, I don’t care that you added LoJack, I don’t want it and I’m not paying for it. When the salesman does the fake check with manager stall thing, get up, let them see you, and fake walk away. They’ll come after you. Then sit back down and get ready for the next three hours of haggling. |