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I'm a blonde woman, and since it matters in terms of attention, I will include that at the time of my travels I was very young and attractive. I've traveled extensively by myself throughout the Middle East, including Kuwait, Jordon, and Qatar.
You need to ask 1) where are you staying 2) what are you doing and 3) will you have a fixer/escort. If you stay in western hotels with reasonable security, you will most likely be fine there. If you have safe and reliable transport, then chances are, you will be fine. And if you have a fixer, life will be safer and easier. I've always been fine traveling in high threat areas. I've even done dumb things that no one should do, and have been fine (you get complacent over time). From a probability standpoint, statistics are on your side. All this said, you have to assess whether you'll be able to have peace in your life while doing this. I did all my time over there as a childless, unmarried young woman. Now with kids, forget it. Also, bear in mind that if you repeatedly show up to the same place over there, word will get out, and risk will go up. As others have advised, make your nationality and religion ambiguous by wearing a hijab and shalwar kami, if not an abaya. If someone gives you any trouble, call them brother and scold them (that worked for me when men approached me to proposition me). |
OP here. Of course travel is part of my job description but the addition of Pakistan to my work program is new and literally without more than a few days notice. I have worked extensively in other countries in the region (except Afghanistan) without issue or fear. I don't bat an eye in India. I dress very conservatively and do wear shalwar keemez). I, too, am a pale white woman. Where in Pak were you and did you generally feel safe? |
This is really helpful, thank you. Your point about having peace in my life really hit home. We will be in big western hotels in the cities. A PP asked if any colleagues had been - yes, plenty. I think I'm more nervous than all the rest, combined. |
What does this mean? |
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I have traveled to Pakistan (throughout the country) a dozen times for work (over the course of almost a decade for up to 4 months at a time). I'm a white, blonde, young (especially when I first went), attractive female. I was a bit nervous on my first trip, but quickly became cautiously comfortable. I did not wear a shalwar kameez in Islamabad or cover my hair when out in town (I did always carry a pashmina or scarf to use as needed), but you will certainly attract more attention from men and women alike. I had my own vehicle and drove almost daily in the city, often alone (I also had access to a driver if I would have preferred that). My colleagues and I went out to eat and to various shops frequently. Your employer will have their own requirements for what you are and aren't allowed to do.
Obviously, you need to be careful, vary your routes, and maintain a heightened sense of awareness because of the security threats. There is always the potential for danger. But there are certainly a small number of white Western women who are living and working in the city without incident. Your employer and the Embassy should keep you informed of any current threat information and areas to avoid. I really enjoyed all my trips there and would go again if I wasn't home now with my child. I'm also very adventurous, willing to accepts risks, and have traveled to far more dangerous places than Islamabad, so I understand that I am probably an anomaly. However, while it can be dangerous, it is highly unlikely that you'll be involved in a terrorist attack or kidnapping. You'll find that people are typically friendly and mostly will view you as a curiosity. Hope this makes you feel a bit more comfortable if you decide to go. |
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I have been to Islamabad. You need to wear a shalwar kameez, or a loose tunic topic that goes down to your knees. You also need the dupatta (long scarf), which is worn to further cover your shape and give you more modesty, or sometimes to cover your hair. Yes, you could wear western clothes, but most would be considered quite indecent, and life will be much easier if you blend.
I would not drive. Your work should provide a driver. The roads are crazy, with many types of cars, overstuffed buses, motorcycles with several family members and children, all careening and swerving while on some roads donkeys are walking along the side. The two main western hotels, the Serena and the Marriott, are the ones frequented by westerners and are guarded, but have also been the target of attacks in the past. But nearly all hotels and guest houses have armed guards. When you go out, it is best to be accompanied by a man. Whether you are or not, you can expect that in many places, you will see many more men than women. Wherever you go, the men will be curious about what you are doing and may follow you around at banks, stores, on the streets, and to get up very close to you. It is disconcerting and a very odd paradox of the culture. Be sure to register with the State Department to let them know of your travel plans and location. Expect power outages and internet outages. Drink only bottled water. Brush your teeth with bottled water. I have friends who have traveled quite a bit in India and their experiences were nothing like mine in Pakistan. You may have different experiences in other cities. Lahore is supposed to be old and interesting, and perhaps more modern in views. Karachi is a huge bustling city of contradictions. Having noted all the above precautions, there is some incredible hospitality. And wonderful food. |
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I'm the poster above.....I realize that I focused only on Islamabad and not other areas of Punjab. If you are in a rural area, or working directly with the local population, you will probably feel more comfortable wearing a shalwar kameez. You can pick out the fabric and have the tailor make them to your specifications (the whole outfit was probably $10-$15) at one of the many shops in town. Presumably your colleagues will have recommendations and know where to go.
I'll also add that I had a rather large group of colleagues who could show me the ropes and had the infrastructure of the Embassy and my office while there, so that helped with my comfort level. I obviously don't know what your situation is, but presumably they have a good set-up. One more thing, you will get food poisoning at some point no matter how careful you are, but you can buy Cipro for cheap at the drugstore or other medications if you need them. |
Why are you so desperate for a job? DH and I have a no travel for work policy. |
New poster, but the idea is to make them see you as their sister rather than some random foreign woman. So sort of like saying, hey, would you treat your sister like this? |
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You don't need an abaya in Pakistan.
As another PP said, Islamabad, Lahore, and Karachi are relatively liberal and diverse. Also, to the PP who mentioned it, it's not just white women who get stared at in Pakistan. EVERYONE gets stared at, particularly those who seem kind of different. EVERYONE. It's very disconcerting, especially coming from the US. |
| Oh yes, don't drink the tap water, though I think water conditions are better in the north. Avoid street food, though it's delicious. Take lots of Purell and Listerine and maybe some antibiotics if you can get your hands on them. |
This advice I s for someone who's going. OP shouldn't go! I would feel comfortable going if I were ethnically Pakistani, but as someone who looks American or Western? No way. |
| OP again. Thanks very much to 22:30 & 22:49. Your insights are very helpful. My concerns about working in Pak were essentially disregarded by my manager who said I shouldn't make judgments without having been. While I don't necessarily agree with her, I see her point. I have a German colleague who has been living in Islamabad for years and really loves it, so maybe it won't be as bad as I fear? I have colleagues who need to go to Quetta & Peshawar, so I guess I should consider myself fortunate! In any event, your advice has been helpful, I'll endeavor to remain as inconspicuous as possible, will make sure to register with State, etc. |
In South East Asian culture a woman calling a man a brother means they are not supposed to look at her in a non-platonic way. Whether it works is another question. |
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22:49 PP here - I'm sorry to hear your concerns were disregarded. That is not okay. I am adventurous traveler, but Pakistan is unstable and your concerns are realistic. Things can change quickly.
No way on earth I would ever go to Peshawar or Quetta. Far too dangerous, especially for foreigners. I also would not want to return to Islamabad. I was there during an exceptionally unstable time. One of the difficulties we experienced was deciphering reality as we would describe it in western terms, through south Asian cultural norms. For example, it is very common for south Asians to say "don't worry", "no problem", "it is all taken care of", and similar when that does not accurately reflect the situation. This is simply a cultural difference, and is not right or wrong. But in the midst of instability, you have to realize this is the filter, and not take those words for what they would mean in the U.S. You should also be aware of your travel options for leaving suddenly if needed. I was on a British airways flight, and at the time they only left Islamabad three times per week. That may be more frequent now. But no way would I be comfortable with local airlines. I would never take a job with required travel to Pakistan. Though I do have a friend who has traveled there recently for work, and enjoyed the experience. She tends to never worry about security and safety, but then she also has not been there when things are rapidly going south. |