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Hi everyone, I am getting an almost 10 week old puppy in 10 days. What are your go to products for a new puppy? Favorite chew toys? Favorite leash/harness? Best crate pad? etc. Links to chewy.com or amazon appreciated!
Its a labradoodle - so will also need grooming supplies! THanks |
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nylabones (mostly indestructible chew toys)
easy walk harness (or one that clips in front for pulling pups or on top) martingale collars are good (they tighten to discourage pulling and can be used for training) I got my pup a stainless steel crate-crock (holds water, or food and attaches to sides of crate instead of being on the ground where it can easily spill). My dog was a big chewer and would pull it down). have fun! I'm sure you'll get more ideas. |
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Nylabone dinosaur
Bitter apple spray Kong puppy (you can use kibble, peanut butter or their brand of spray for filling it) Smartpetlove snuggle stuffed animal with heartbeat (amazon) Midwest brand exercise pen (I set up one play area inside, and one outside in our back yard) - available on amazon |
| TJ Maxx and Marshalls have great pet toys! Our puppy LOVED bully sticks. Which are normall very expensive but you sometimes can get lucky at those stores. He also really liked rope toys. |
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I got an 8 week old half German Shepherd & half Rottweiler puppy last year & he is THE sweetest, most loving & adorable guy in the world... but trust me when I tell you Nylabone, Nylabone, Nylabone!
When you hear stories about puppies chewing through things like Christmas lights & either electrocuting themselves or setting the house on fire, they are not exaggerations. Puppies love, love, LOVE to chew more than anything in the world... they're teething, just like a baby. They won't chew on the inexpensive, cheap stuff either, oh no. It's ALWAYS your really expensive Italian leather shoes, living room furniture (the wooden legs are their favorite) & one of their most favorite things are glasses or sunglasses of any type. Also, if your child wears a retainer or any kind of mouth piece, they'll be all over that in two seconds. Buy stock in Nylabone, find a flavor they like or spray it with one of those sprays that attracts puppies & they'll chew on it for days (no regular animal bones EVER though, they're highly dangerous for their stomachs). Little accidents can always be cleaned up, no harm- no foul... but chewing can cost you thousands of dollars in damage (and although it will feel like it, they're not doing it intentionally to piss you off... it's just what puppies do, lol). Good luck! Btw, what type of pup are you getting? |
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Also, Dr Boyd pet resort in Rockville is great!
They do everything from daycare, training, boarding (and not the type of boarding you're thinking of... it's way better), socialization (which is very, very important to do this young if you want him or her to get along with other dogs) & all vetirinary services. Plus, theyre 24/7 365 days a week & have live streaming cameras so you can keep an eye on your pup. |
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Nature’s miracle.
Charlie bear treats for training. Bully sticks smell like death once wet—my whole family was ready to just abandon the house from the smell of one stick. I like a leather leash because you can wrap it around your hand to shorten it and it doesn’t hurt like nylon does. The retractable leashes are trrrible—avoid those. |
| Also, don’t put a pad in the crate—you don’t want him peeing on it. |
This almost never happens & if it does, it's not the puppies fault it's the owners. I've been a dog trainer for 10+ years & your cage/crate should be big enough for the puppy to grow into, so usually double or even triple their size (depending on the breed). If you put a comfy pad in the far back half of the crate & then line the front half of the crate with wee-wee pads, your puppy will NOT pee on their comfy pad/bed... EVER Puppies/dogs are very territorial where they sleep & they would do just about anything to pee just about anywhere else other than where they sleep. The problems arise when owners don't set up their crates like they'd want their own house or apartment to be set up... with separate rooms (sections). You need a very specific area of the crate for sleeping & a very specific area for them to relieve themselves (do you want to sleep in your bathroom? Well... hopefully not, lol). You don't have to create a physical barrier between the two sections, just where one ends the other begins... but they should be at the far ends. Professionally speaking, I always push their comfy pads ALL the way towards the back, so they have the security of sleeping in the back corner which they crave. Puppies who have been newly separated/weaned from siblings/parents find comfort, safety & security in the back corner (especially if you give them a little furry stuffed toy friend to sleep with). Trust me, no puppy wants to be in a crate all alone - give them a stuffed friend & you'll get a sounder night's sleep too. Then next goes the food & water in the middle (they won't have an accident in their bowls, I promise) & then the wee-wee pads as far away from the food/water as possible. Place an old or ratty towel in the very front so nothing can potentially leak out of the cage. Make sure you buy scented wee wee pads for training, as the scent stimulates them to relieve themselves on the pads & the pads alone (after relieving themselves the first time, they'll always go back to the same spot). If you do it this way, you'll never have any intermingling between bed, food/water & relieving themselves. |