Car buy & sell in 2018

[Anonymous]

How would you do this with least amount of time at the dealership? Price matters but I don’t need the best deal of the century. Let’s say I have a 5 yr old Mazda blue book mid-range value of $11,000. I want to buy a 2019 Mazda MSRP of $35,000 with “special incentives” on the website to a “final” price of $32,000. Looks like the dealer has 10 acceptable cars at this same price. How would you go about selling and buying these cars with least hassle & haggle?

[Anonymous]

I don't know a ton about buying and selling cars, but I wouldn't step foot in the dealership without having financing lined up already. I'd probably know which of the available cars I was most interested in, have some cash on hand for a down payment in addition to the car. As to whether to sell the old car or trade it in...you'd probably get more money by selling it yourself but it's also more hassle. You can usually do some of the figuring out part online before hand...using the dealer or capital one (or whomever) payment estimator. Know what you old car is realistically worth, make sure it's clean, vacuumed, de-crumbed, spritz some armor-all on the dash to make it shine to help you maximize trade in value.

[Anonymous]

The used car is very low miles, very clean. No financing is needed for the new car.

[Anonymous]

Low miles to me means it did a ton of short trips in stop and go traffic. This is THE most abusive, wear-inducing use cycle a car can be put through.

It ruins the exhaust system (moisture), engine (carbon accumulation from constant low rpms, engine oil loaded with contamination from never getting hot enough to cook off lighter weight contaminants, oil sludge formation) and transmission (first/second gear shift solenoid and valve bodies worn out before rest of transmission).

I’d rather buy a 5 year old car with 100,000 miles than a 5 year old car with 20,000 miles.

[Anonymous]

Ask dealers for specific quotes. Once you have a deal bring your car in for eval at specific time. Should take 20 mins. Then complete paperwork at home. 30 minutes at dealer max.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Ask dealers for specific quotes. Once you have a deal bring your car in for eval at specific time. Should take 20 mins. Then complete paperwork at home. 30 minutes at dealer max.

Is this real life?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Ask dealers for specific quotes. Once you have a deal bring your car in for eval at specific time. Should take 20 mins. Then complete paperwork at home. 30 minutes at dealer max.

I'm the first PP. I just bought a car 3 weeks ago and it took way more than 30 minutes and that's with having my financing squared away ahead of time and having the paperwork ready to go when I got there. I test drove one day, thought about it and then did the paperwork online, and took delivery the next day. It was about an hour and a half on delivery day. Processing all that paperwork takes time.

[Anonymous]

Huh, I’ve not seen on-line processing for car-buying. I’d love this option.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Huh, I’ve not seen on-line processing for car-buying. I’d love this option.

You're not trying very hard. I did it recently and when I bought my previous car in 2008. Just fill out the loan application online. Boom, done. Go test drive it if you haven't already. Decide if you want to buy it...you can do this in your pajamas while watching TV. Just send a quick text to the salesman, yes or no. If it's yes, he does the rest. You go on at the time you tell him you'll be there and sign the paperwork. Then, you drive home in your new car.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Low miles to me means it did a ton of short trips in stop and go traffic. This is THE most abusive, wear-inducing use cycle a car can be put through.

It ruins the exhaust system (moisture), engine (carbon accumulation from constant low rpms, engine oil loaded with contamination from never getting hot enough to cook off lighter weight contaminants, oil sludge formation) and transmission (first/second gear shift solenoid and valve bodies worn out before rest of transmission).

I’d rather buy a 5 year old car with 100,000 miles than a 5 year old car with 20,000 miles.

Or maybe they don’t drive it much. Only commute to work one day a week highway driving and drive the family car for everything else.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Low miles to me means it did a ton of short trips in stop and go traffic. This is THE most abusive, wear-inducing use cycle a car can be put through.

It ruins the exhaust system (moisture), engine (carbon accumulation from constant low rpms, engine oil loaded with contamination from never getting hot enough to cook off lighter weight contaminants, oil sludge formation) and transmission (first/second gear shift solenoid and valve bodies worn out before rest of transmission).

I’d rather buy a 5 year old car with 100,000 miles than a 5 year old car with 20,000 miles.

Or maybe they don’t drive it much. Only commute to work one day a week highway driving and drive the family car for everything else.

I know! The prior PP makes low mileage sound like a crime against humanity. I’m coming up on 77,000 miles on my 2006 Toyota. Try not to faint!

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Huh, I’ve not seen on-line processing for car-buying. I’d love this option.

You're not trying very hard. I did it recently and when I bought my previous car in 2008. Just fill out the loan application online. Boom, done. Go test drive it if you haven't already. Decide if you want to buy it...you can do this in your pajamas while watching TV. Just send a quick text to the salesman, yes or no. If it's yes, he does the rest. You go on at the time you tell him you'll be there and sign the paperwork. Then, you drive home in your new car.

Even without financing and knowing just about what car I want, I haven’t managed to buy a car in less that 3 hrs. Usually closer to 5. I can’t wait til Amazon sells cars and it’s delivered to my house.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Low miles to me means it did a ton of short trips in stop and go traffic. This is THE most abusive, wear-inducing use cycle a car can be put through.

It ruins the exhaust system (moisture), engine (carbon accumulation from constant low rpms, engine oil loaded with contamination from never getting hot enough to cook off lighter weight contaminants, oil sludge formation) and transmission (first/second gear shift solenoid and valve bodies worn out before rest of transmission).

I’d rather buy a 5 year old car with 100,000 miles than a 5 year old car with 20,000 miles.

Or maybe they don’t drive it much. Only commute to work one day a week highway driving and drive the family car for everything else.

Not driving it frequently is just as bad for a car. That means it sits for days or even weeks.

[Anonymous]

The dealership will likely offer the lower to mid point of the Kelly’s BB price for the trade in. But the question is how to complete the sell & buy transactions with minimal time (or hassle & haggle).

[Anonymous]

I am sure that in the modern world there are no particular problems with the purchase and sale of cars. However, everything happens and the most common problem is the lack of VIN checks on such trust resources as https://www.faxvin.com/vin-check/bmv. Even if the model of the car looks sunk into the soul, you should always do a preliminary analysis, at least for the presence of an emergency history. Also, with the sale. You can claim more with the provision of a "pure" operating history.