How late in the year can I lay sod? October OK?

[Anonymous]

Is October too late to be laying sod in this area?

I'm not doing a whole yard but just strips on both sides of my driveway that used to have mulch and shrubs. I had hoped to do it this month, but I think the soonest I could get to it is maybe the weekend of the Sept. 29-30th.

Thanks!

[mjsmith]

youre fine up until the ground freezes...

cooler temps are better for fescue anyhow plus better chance of rain to keep it moist

[Anonymous]

You're still good, especially because it has been so hot.

[Anonymous]

It's been so hot that I've delayed putting seed/sod down, so you're fine. I'm shooting to have mine all on by the end of the month as well.

[Anonymous]

Does anyone have advice for a sod type for a shady backyard? I'm helping my SIL in Bethesda with trying to turn her shady backyard (lots of large mature trees with large canopies) from a dirt patch into a lawn.

They tried to seed the backyard last spring and it didn't work. The grass didn't take root. I've suggested we sod the lawn this fall, but we need a sod that will do well in shady backyard. Any suggestions would be helpful!

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Does anyone have advice for a sod type for a shady backyard? I'm helping my SIL in Bethesda with trying to turn her shady backyard (lots of large mature trees with large canopies) from a dirt patch into a lawn.

They tried to seed the backyard last spring and it didn't work. The grass didn't take root. I've suggested we sod the lawn this fall, but we need a sod that will do well in shady backyard. Any suggestions would be helpful!

Bluegrass and creeping red rescue, but without an irrigation system it's an uphill battle at best. Those large trees suck huge amounts of moisture out of the soil.

[Anonymous]

PP--Thanks for that tidbit! I have a dirt patch in my front yard. I know we have very clay soil, but some of my neighbors grow much better grass. But I have an end unit townhouse with a couple of big trees nearby, so that factoid helps me understand why I could be struggling to grow it!

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Does anyone have advice for a sod type for a shady backyard? I'm helping my SIL in Bethesda with trying to turn her shady backyard (lots of large mature trees with large canopies) from a dirt patch into a lawn.

They tried to seed the backyard last spring and it didn't work. The grass didn't take root. I've suggested we sod the lawn this fall, but we need a sod that will do well in shady backyard. Any suggestions would be helpful!

Seeding failed because it was done in the Spring. The ground is cold and the seed needs consistent warmth. Don't let lawn companies talk you into doing this. You don't need sod. That's for people with more money than sense. Buy some tall fescue grass seed--sun or shade--it does not matter-- Here's what you do:

1. With a metal rake, scrape up any thatch and loosen the topsoil a bit (don't kill yourself doing this--light scratching here and there if fine.

2. Put lots of granulated LIMESTONE all over the area. (grass needs a neutral ph and with all the rain last spring and early summer the ground is full of acid rain.)

3. Throw the grass seed evenly where you want it--it doesn't have to be perfect- just don't leave clumps.

4. Throw down some SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER. Don't worry about weed growth it's too cold for crabgrass, it's all dead by now.

5. Buy a bale of hay or a couple of bags of very dark rich compost. Spread it loosely over the seeded areas--not thickly, a thin coating 1/4 inch or so--again, doesn't have to be perfect.

6. Water! This is important. Keep it evenly wet-NO PUDDLES! It must stay damp for the first week. Water it in the MORNING not evening (so you don't attract slugs).

In 10 days you will have grass to run through barefoot.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Does anyone have advice for a sod type for a shady backyard? I'm helping my SIL in Bethesda with trying to turn her shady backyard (lots of large mature trees with large canopies) from a dirt patch into a lawn.

They tried to seed the backyard last spring and it didn't work. The grass didn't take root. I've suggested we sod the lawn this fall, but we need a sod that will do well in shady backyard. Any suggestions would be helpful!

Seeding failed because it was done in the Spring. The ground is cold and the seed needs consistent warmth. Don't let lawn companies talk you into doing this. You don't need sod. That's for people with more money than sense. Buy some tall fescue grass seed--sun or shade--it does not matter-- Here's what you do:

1. With a metal rake, scrape up any thatch and loosen the topsoil a bit (don't kill yourself doing this--light scratching here and there if fine.

2. Put lots of granulated LIMESTONE all over the area. (grass needs a neutral ph and with all the rain last spring and early summer the ground is full of acid rain.)

3. Throw the grass seed evenly where you want it--it doesn't have to be perfect- just don't leave clumps.

4. Throw down some SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER. Don't worry about weed growth it's too cold for crabgrass, it's all dead by now.

5. Buy a bale of hay or a couple of bags of very dark rich compost. Spread it loosely over the seeded areas--not thickly, a thin coating 1/4 inch or so--again, doesn't have to be perfect.

6. Water! This is important. Keep it evenly wet-NO PUDDLES! It must stay damp for the first week. Water it in the MORNING not evening (so you don't attract slugs).

In 10 days you will have grass to run through barefoot.

Really? That's nuts.
Should we do it now in the fall? Will we need to re-seed in the spring?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Does anyone have advice for a sod type for a shady backyard? I'm helping my SIL in Bethesda with trying to turn her shady backyard (lots of large mature trees with large canopies) from a dirt patch into a lawn.

They tried to seed the backyard last spring and it didn't work. The grass didn't take root. I've suggested we sod the lawn this fall, but we need a sod that will do well in shady backyard. Any suggestions would be helpful!

Seeding failed because it was done in the Spring. The ground is cold and the seed needs consistent warmth. Don't let lawn companies talk you into doing this. You don't need sod. That's for people with more money than sense. Buy some tall fescue grass seed--sun or shade--it does not matter-- Here's what you do:

1. With a metal rake, scrape up any thatch and loosen the topsoil a bit (don't kill yourself doing this--light scratching here and there if fine.

2. Put lots of granulated LIMESTONE all over the area. (grass needs a neutral ph and with all the rain last spring and early summer the ground is full of acid rain.)

3. Throw the grass seed evenly where you want it--it doesn't have to be perfect- just don't leave clumps.

4. Throw down some SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER. Don't worry about weed growth it's too cold for crabgrass, it's all dead by now.

5. Buy a bale of hay or a couple of bags of very dark rich compost. Spread it loosely over the seeded areas--not thickly, a thin coating 1/4 inch or so--again, doesn't have to be perfect.

6. Water! This is important. Keep it evenly wet-NO PUDDLES! It must stay damp for the first week. Water it in the MORNING not evening (so you don't attract slugs).

In 10 days you will have grass to run through barefoot.

Really? That's nuts.
Should we do it now in the fall? Will we need to re-seed in the spring?

You only seed in fall

[Anonymous]

" Here's what you do:

1. With a metal rake, scrape up any thatch and loosen the topsoil a bit (don't kill yourself doing this--light scratching here and there if fine.

2. Put lots of granulated LIMESTONE all over the area. (grass needs a neutral ph and with all the rain last spring and early summer the ground is full of acid rain.)

3. Throw the grass seed evenly where you want it--it doesn't have to be perfect- just don't leave clumps.

4. Throw down some SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER. Don't worry about weed growth it's too cold for crabgrass, it's all dead by now.

5. Buy a bale of hay or a couple of bags of very dark rich compost. Spread it loosely over the seeded areas--not thickly, a thin coating 1/4 inch or so--again, doesn't have to be perfect.

6. Water! This is important. Keep it evenly wet-NO PUDDLES! It must stay damp for the first week. Water it in the MORNING not evening (so you don't attract slugs).

In 10 days you will have grass to run through barefoot. "

Can I do this in an area where I've pulled up a bunch of large weeds? Not sure if the grass will be enough to push back on the weeds that tend to grow in my yard.