Mulching questions

[Anonymous]

I have a front corner of my yard that was properly mulched once upon a time. Now most of it is gone, and it's a lot of weeds and grass. There are a few bushes in there and a tree. I'd like to get the grass/weeds out and re-mulch the area, but I have no idea what I'm doing. Do I just pull all the stuff out and then dump a ton of mulch on top? How do I get the weeds, etc from growing back? How does one determine how much mulch they need? Help!

[Anonymous]

Pull the weeds, pull the grass, and add a 2-3 inches of mulch on time. The perennial weeds/grass won't grow back because you've pulled them, the annual weeds won't sprout because there is mulch on top.

Or, at least, that's how it works in theory. In practice, there will still be some weeding, because you never pull out all of the weeds, and then weeds can also sprout on top of the mulch. But there will be a lot less weeding.

When you add the mulch, resist the temptation to pile mulch volcanoes around the bases of the bushes and trees. The mow-and-blow landscapers do this, and I don't know why. It's bad for the bushes/trees.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Pull the weeds, pull the grass, and add a 2-3 inches of mulch on time. The perennial weeds/grass won't grow back because you've pulled them, the annual weeds won't sprout because there is mulch on top.

Or, at least, that's how it works in theory. In practice, there will still be some weeding, because you never pull out all of the weeds, and then weeds can also sprout on top of the mulch. But there will be a lot less weeding.

When you add the mulch, resist the temptation to pile mulch volcanoes around the bases of the bushes and trees. The mow-and-blow landscapers do this, and I don't know why. It's bad for the bushes/trees.

Thank you!!!

Can someone tell me what sort of mulch is inexpensive but will do the trick? Suggestions on where to buy?

[Anonymous]

I weed, and then lay down a layer of Preen before putting the mulch down.

[Anonymous]

I suggest putting a layer of newspaper down before putting the mulch down. It helps keep the weeds out, decomposes and is easy to cut through if you decide to plant something there.

[Anonymous]

If you put the mulch down properly, you don't need a pre-emergent herbicide.

OP, how much area are you talking about? If it's not very big, you can just use basic bags of wood chip mulch from your local big box store. Or you can get lots of wood chips for free by flagging down a tree care company truck -- but you'll have to have a place for them to dump the wood chips, and then you'll have to move the wood chips to where you want them by wheelbarrow.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:If you put the mulch down properly, you don't need a pre-emergent herbicide.

OP, how much area are you talking about? If it's not very big, you can just use basic bags of wood chip mulch from your local big box store. Or you can get lots of wood chips for free by flagging down a tree care company truck -- but you'll have to have a place for them to dump the wood chips, and then you'll have to move the wood chips to where you want them by wheelbarrow.

Fresh wood chips will deplete nitrogen as they decay. They are best used for mulching paths. If you must add them to planted areas, put down some blood meal, Milorganite or nitrogen source first.

[Anonymous]

Fresh wood chips will deplete the nitrogen -- in the top few millimeters of soil. They do not somehow magically pull nitrogen out of the soil. OP has shrubs and trees. This will not be a problem.

The main worry with fresh wood chips is that they can get hot, if lots of leaves went through the chipper with the branches.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:Fresh wood chips will deplete the nitrogen -- in the top few millimeters of soil. They do not somehow magically pull nitrogen out of the soil. OP has shrubs and trees. This will not be a problem.

The main worry with fresh wood chips is that they can get hot, if lots of leaves went through the chipper with the branches.

+1

[Anonymous]

So much depends on the size and your budget. Just went out and bought paper and mulch from HD. 8 bags and $20. The paper is wonderful. We added to our bed we had for 3 years. Right in the middle of August ... no weeds, so nice!

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:If you put the mulch down properly, you don't need a pre-emergent herbicide.

OP, how much area are you talking about? If it's not very big, you can just use basic bags of wood chip mulch from your local big box store. Or you can get lots of wood chips for free by flagging down a tree care company truck -- but you'll have to have a place for them to dump the wood chips, and then you'll have to move the wood chips to where you want them by wheelbarrow.

Fresh wood chips will deplete nitrogen as they decay. They are best used for mulching paths. If you must add them to planted areas, put down some blood meal, Milorganite or nitrogen source first.

This was the thought 10-20 years ago, but not today. Wood chips are a fine way to mulch, just don't strangle the plant base. Leave about 6 inches arou d main trunk bare.