| I don't get the shot at american cars not holding value. I want to get a used Ford Explorer and they seem to hold their value just fine. |
It’s always worked for me. But I’m pretty dead set on negotiating no matter how long it takes. I’m stubborn as hell and love a good challenge. |
+1 as long as there’s no prepayment penalty, this is great |
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I personally wouldn't go longer than 60 months but 0% is great and if you can get it for a shorter term, absolutely take it.
And yes, gap insurance through your autoinsurance. I pay $7 a month for mine and and after a year or two (depending on the car value), there is no further need so it can be cancelled. |
Under water means you owe more than the car is worth. You, or the PP, said that for an 84 month loan the purchaser is underwater for all 84 months. That is ridiculous. It's a 0% loan, so we're only talking about the principal. Say you spend $42,000 on a car - your payment will be $500/month. You think that the car is worth less than $6000 after 6 years? Less than $500 after 6 years 11 months? Say you buy an $84,000 car - at the end of six years, you still owe $12,000. You think your 6 yo Porche, or other luxury car, is worth less than $12,000? And a year later, it's worth less than $1000? As I said, this is basic math. |
This was the advice I was given AFTER the fact when I bought my first car over 20 years ago. I have a 5 year plan but my payments were around $200 a month which is affordable. If you can afford to pay more per month in order to pay the car off faster than do it. Get a used car in good condition if money is a factor. Cars instantly lose value as soon as you drive it off the lot. You could literally buy the car and drive it to Car Max that same day and Car Max will devalue the car around $5-10K. It's crazy! Remember to factor in the insurance money and your insurance payments might go up as well as registration depending on your state and the age of your last car. It is definitely not a decision to be rushed into. |
Sure, if you KNOW you will own your car for 7 years. Be sure to have gap insurance, however, because this is almost guaranteed to make you upside down on the value of the car. |
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I agree that domestic vehicles lose their value a lot earlier vs. one manufactured in Japan.
Honda’s + Toyota’s hold their values much longer than Fords + Chevys. |
But compare a used Ford vehicle with a Honda vehicle. The Honda vehicle will likely cost more. Ford is not a reliable brand™️ |
Also German luxury cars start out 2-3 times the price of a Japanese car but then after the loan is paid off, the Japanese cars are worth twice as much as the luxury cars. |
Honda's are painfully boring. |
| Just say no. |
If you are not paying interest, what's the issue? You can always increase payments to pay off sooner. |
A 2012 Jeep Wrangler on average has held 50% of its value. Haven't run the math on the curve, but aside from the first year and assuming you don't total the thing, a 7 year loan at 0% would seem to be a good deal (of course, FCA doesn't offer 0% loans on Wranglers because they sell fine without them). |
| If you have cash on hand to pay for the full price of the car, and the question is if you should do that vs. taking a 0% loan (and the price is the same either way), absolutely take the loan. It's literally, and I do mean literally, free money. |