I work on cars. AMA

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:In the winter, my subaru (2004) emits a burnt oil smell coming through the vents, and I can see smoke coming out of the hood, but this only happens when the engine has been cold and I drive it long enough for the engine to get pretty warm. This doesn't happen when it's warmer.

I have taken it to my mechanic twice now, and as great as he is, he can't figure it out. I've googled it, and can't figure it out.

If you can point me to the right direction, you are a god in my eyes.

I’m betting you have a very small leak in one of the cylinder head gaskets that is allowing oil to seep out in cold temps when the engine, which is made of metal, is at its maximum point of cold contraction. Metal expands and contracts as it gets warmer or colder. (Unrelated- did you know the SR-71 spyplane, which flew at almost 2,200 mph, got so hot from friction with the air around it that it “grew” 11 inches during flight? That’s how much metal can expand with heat) in the winter, the engine will contract more that it does in the summer. We’re not thing much here , just .0001, one then thousandth of an inch, is enough to let oil wick out past a seal and drip onto the exhaust manifold. In the summer, the engine doesn’t get cold enough to contract that much.

What to do? Unless you also have a leak in the cyclinder head gasket that is mixing coolant into the water or vice versa (cyclinder head gasket issues are common on Subaru H-4 enginess, btw) I’d let it ride. Live with it. Eventually it’ll get worse, and the leak WILL be easier to spot then. Same cost to fix it now or later. I’d wait until I couldn’t stand it anymore. But that’s just me.

Lastly, I’m NOT a god. Definitely not. But you’re very kind to say that.

Great reference to SR-71, I always remember they used to leak fuel while sitting on the ground. It was designed so that when it was flying all the leaks would seal up with the heat expansion.

[Anonymous]

I have a Hyundai Genesis. Great car for the most part. Recently, my front end won't lift up when I start the car and it looks like the air suspension system is broken or has a leak. I replaced the shocks which were leaking fluid but that doesn't seem to have solved the issue so I think one of the air bags, struts or solenoids are leaking.

Looks like I need to take this car to a mechanic to diagnose and fix. Is this an easy to diagnose issue and do you know how much it would cost to fix this issue?

Also, what are your thoughts on the higher end Korean cars like the Genesis? Are they more or less reliable than US or Japanese cars? I know earlier in the thread you said their quality and workmanship have gone up drastically over the years but wanted to dig a little deeper and see if they are built well and built to last.

Thank you for starting this thread!

[Anonymous]

I lost the key fob to both cars recently. What is the least expensive way to get these replaced? Dealer quoted $325 (for just the ONE car!).

[Anonymous]

What is your view on Suburus in general?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:My RAV-4 is approaching the need for an oil change, but based on mileage and on estimated date of change given to me by Jiffy Lube, it's a few hundred miles away from actually having the light on, etc.

My car wouldn't start today; it took several tries over 10 minutes to start. I think it's the heat. Are these two things related?

Thank you!

The hard start today had nothing to do with your oil. That said., let’s ponder what it might be in the order of greater improbability

Maybe you possibly had a vapor bubble somewhere in your fuel line. Do you park the car outside? Because it’s possible the pavement was warm enough, long enough, to radiate enough heat up under your car to get your fuel temp warm enough to evaporate enough fuel to form a bubble in the fuel line. And that’s pretty improbable!

Or...

It could be that the engine temp sensor thinks the car is already “warm”, because it’s hot as hell outside, and even when you shut the engine off let it sit for hours, it really doesn’t cool off as fast or as much as it would in lower temps, and the ECU is trying to start the engine with a lean fuel-air mixture because it thinks it’s alreaf been running because it’s so warm. I had a 2005 Toyota Matrix that used to be VERY hard to start when it was warm.

Or...

You didn’t describe the starting attempts, but it could also be a dying battery if it seemed like it wasn’t cranking fast. And hot weather kills batteries that are already in marginal condition.



But what I do know is that the oil condition had nothing to do with it. And Jiify Lube sucks. I’d be remiss if I didn’t say that.

Hi OP! It happened a few more times, and the engine light came on. Turned out it was a faulty oxygen valve. I think I was predisposed to blame the heat for everything, since I just hate the heat!

[Anonymous]

I saw a question here about least reliable cars—but what are currently the most reliable cars out there?

[Anonymous]

Thank you, OP, for this informative thread!! It makes me very happy that my car is electric and I don't have to worry about 99% of this... Just battery life, which is an issue, but not a huge one at present and for the way we drive, mostly on city streets in stop and go traffic.

That being said, I have a tire question! Recently had to do an emergency last-minute tire replacement on my car and just got the cheapest option, which doesn't match the other tires. How important is it for the type of tires to match? Does it matter more on highways? Or city driving?

Question two: I read on an electric car forum that inflating the tires a bit more than recommended is better for mileage, which is an issue with EVs. Is this safe? True?

[Anonymous]

(Also, in my experience with EVs, just to share, the Nissan Leaf, although it has some drawbacks, is probably one of the better EVs out there, in terms of comfort, storage, and drivability. One pedal driving rules.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:What's the best way to buy a vehicle in good condition from the 80s?

From the 80’s? Probably at a classic car auction or a for sale ad on Hemming’s Motor News.

Pretty much the only cars still left from the 80’s are the “keepers”, that the owners specifically wanted to hold on to. That means they’ve been maintained, but also means they’ve lasted long enough that their value is starting to creep back up. Fox Body Mustangs, for example. You couldn’t give away a 1987 5.0 in the mid-2000’s. But now? One in decent shape will run more than it cost new in ‘87.

Thanks! I was looking for a 300-something Mercedes, maybe a wagon, unless you think that's a terrible idea. But I'll check out the mustang you mentioned.

Oh I’m not recommending the Mustang. I was just using it as an example. A car that sold for maybe $14k in 1989, lost much of its value by 2005, then with numbers reduced by attrition, the values started creeping up again to the point where good ones today are back to $15k or more.

I can’t tell you what classic 80’s to get, that’s entirely subjective. But look for something you’ll enjoy driving. Something you want to drive, versus something you have to drive.

If you're considering a 80's Mercedes 300 (presumably from the diesel family?), I'd recommend checking out a Volvo 240- has a very similar driving feel, and there are a lot of them still plying the roads of greater Washington, particularly in NWDC and close-in MoCo. We recently relegated ours to back-up car status when we bought a hybrid Lexus, but I drove it daily for the 4 years prior, and still use it on the weekends as I actually prefer the way that it drives to the Lexus- 45 mpg is hard to argue against for commuting though!

[Anonymous]

What do you think about downshifting vs. Braking. In a manual? In an automatic? Truckers do it right?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:What is your view on Subarus in general?

+1