RAV4 Struts/Shocks Wobbly Feeling

[Anonymous]

I have a 2012 RAV4 with about 42k miles. It has been feeling wobbly, and potholes/bumps feel huge. Does this sound like I need my struts or shocks replaced? 42k miles is very little, but my 17 yo had been driving it and who knows how many dips and bumps he's been flying through. I usually get it serviced at Toyota. How much do you think this would cost? Is this something they would markup such that I should have it serviced elsewhere? I remember getting new struts on my Corolla 20 years ago at Midas or some such chain and the struts/breaks were never the same since. Always squeaking and grinding. Any advice?

[Anonymous]

1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

Please avoid Toyota …

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

Please avoid Toyota …

Really? Why?

[Anonymous]

NB. It’s generally a bad idea to tell the ship what you think is wrong. Tell them the issue you are having and let them diagnose it and provide an estimate of parts and labor.

Despite my comment in the posting above about avoiding dealerships, they sometimes offer specials/coupons for things like oil changes as a loss leader. Check online. They can be a good value. Just don’t be surprised once the service is complete when they hand you an itemized list of 37 things that need to be replaced for $3500+.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

Please avoid Toyota …

Really? Why?

Cost. Cost. And cost.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

Please avoid Toyota …

Really? Why?

Cost. Cost. And cost.

That doesn't make any sense. Are you talking about cost of a new toyota? Maintenance cost?

[Anonymous]

Dealership service departments are not reknown for their exacting ethics.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

Please avoid Toyota …

Really? Why?

Cost. Cost. And cost.

That doesn't make any sense. Are you talking about cost of a new toyota? Maintenance cost?

A Toyota dealership might charge a rate in the rage of $125-150 an hour. An independent could be $85-100. You’re generally taking about straightforward maintenance and repair. Not expertise or very expensive diagnostic equipment that might be necessary for a Euro import.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

Please avoid Toyota …

Really? Why?

Cost. Cost. And cost.

That doesn't make any sense. Are you talking about cost of a new toyota? Maintenance cost?

A Toyota dealership might charge a rate in the rage of $125-150 an hour. An independent could be $85-100. You’re generally taking about straightforward maintenance and repair. Not expertise or very expensive diagnostic equipment that might be necessary for a Euro import.

Oh, I get it now. You are saying avoid getting service done at a dealer. I thought you were saying avoid getting a Toyota because of cost of ownership. My bad

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:1. Check tire pressure, wear patterns and if necessary rebalance. Check for bent wheel or tire damage like a bubble. Is the steering wheel shaking and if so, at a particular speed? Does the car pull to one side while driving or braking?

2. Do you hear any clunking particularly when turning? Check front and rear control arms (upper and lower;’), sway bar links, tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. You may need new bushings. Check CV boots for leaks while you’re at it.

3. Check struts/shocks for leaks. Check strut mounts.

4. Have alignment performed after suspension work.

Please Toyota (or any other dealership except for warranty work unless you are happy to toss away cash. Likewise Midas and other chain shops. Find a good independent shop, hopefully one that charges by hour, not book. Ask if they are using OE/OEM or aftermarket parts and the warranty being provided. Build a relationship for routine maintenance (oil changes, etc.)

That engine is practically brand new and should run for another 150,000miles with standard maintenance. Has the differential fluid been changed yet? Is the oil changed every 10,000 miles?

Please avoid Toyota …

Really? Why?

Cost. Cost. And cost.

That doesn't make any sense. Are you talking about cost of a new toyota? Maintenance cost?

A Toyota dealership might charge a rate in the rage of $125-150 an hour. An independent could be $85-100. You’re generally taking about straightforward maintenance and repair. Not expertise or very expensive diagnostic equipment that might be necessary for a Euro import.

Oh, I get it now. You are saying avoid getting service done at a dealer. I thought you were saying avoid getting a Toyota because of cost of ownership. My bad

Good. Toyota average cost of ownership is one of the best. BTW we used to have a Lexus that occasionally was serviced (after warranty expired) at Toyota for a sporadic transmission issue because the two shared the same diagnostic equipment and many of the same parts. Shop rates were $30 an hour lower at Toyota.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:I have a 2012 RAV4 with about 42k miles. It has been feeling wobbly, and potholes/bumps feel huge. Does this sound like I need my struts or shocks replaced? 42k miles is very little, but my 17 yo had been driving it and who knows how many dips and bumps he's been flying through. I usually get it serviced at Toyota. How much do you think this would cost? Is this something they would markup such that I should have it serviced elsewhere? I remember getting new struts on my Corolla 20 years ago at Midas or some such chain and the struts/breaks were never the same since. Always squeaking and grinding. Any advice?

Struts are done. It’s not the mileage, it’s the age. They lose their gas charge over time. Also, control arm bushings are probably deformed from sitting with little driving.

[Anonymous]

OP here. Thanks everyone. So how much should it cost to replace the struts? I’ve only ever gotten serviced at Toyota so don’t know if others’ estimates are good.

[Anonymous]

I’d ballpark $700-800 including alignment for front struts, which is necessary. Each strut retails @ $160 (for genuine Toyota part). Rear shocks retail for less than $60 each. Most mechanics will recommend replacing all 4 but it’s possible you only need front struts.

All in you’re probably looking at something in the range of $1100-1500. It’s a straightforward job that a shop should be able to knock out in less than 3 hours. Bear in mind that you could also be looking at a recommendation to replace worn out bushings.