Soundproofing walls between 1920s DC row homes
![[Post New]](/jforum/templates/default/images/icon_minipost_new.gif){kind=icon}
Anonymous
|
We’re renovating our 1920s DC row home and would like to sound proof the shared wall between the front living rooms. We currently have plaster walls. Given space constraints we can’t add another layer of plaster or drywall. I suppose we’d have to take out the plaster and rebuild it. Has anyone done this?
Any tips would be great!! |
Anonymous
|
Yeah, if it is plaster, I am not sure what you can do if you don't have space to add another layer or do drywall instead.
I do recall seeing an ad for a product in the back of This Old House magazine several times for an easy to install an insulating layer that takes up less space than drywall, can't recall name of it. I *think* it is paintable. The other option, since it is for sound and not temperature, is to put as many plush furnishings in the room as possible - at least it is a living room. Thick rug, draperies, soft furniture and pillows. Not sure if wall hangings fit your decorating style or not, but that is another layer of fabric to muffle sounds. Hmmm, as I type...sounds like you are tight on space, but if you had any ideas about putting built in bookcases on that wall, maybe your carpenter could come up with some ideas to insulate, too. I get it - I can hear my neighbor run down his steps beside my dining room  as well as his great surround sound system bass.
|
Anonymous
| A built in book case or entry-way hallway built-in is a good idea! |
Anonymous
|
You'd have to tear it all out, and use a sound proofing company and even then it would only help a little.
We used foam board, Roxul sound and 5/8 inch dry wall in our basement and still can hear everything. We put heavy drapes, thick shag carpets with heavy foam pads and much more. Did't help at all. |
Anonymous
| Also add insulation between the floors and sound reducing windows. |
Anonymous
| In theory, you want your inside wall to not touch anything that touches the shared wall or sound will transmit through. You will lose a few inches depending on the wall's construction. |
Anonymous
Here's an image of staggered studs with fiberglass batting: 
|
Anonymous
| You need a resilient sound channel and the two layers of drywall with green glue in between. It will add about 2.5” to the wall. I do not recommend removing plaster. It is super messy, and if your bricks are old and not in good shape, could be unpleasant and actually make things worse. A company did it for me a few years ago and it was about $5k. It definitely helped, but I can still hear some noises. I’d recommend a small white noise machine which really helps to block out the rest. |
Anonymous
Its more than that. You need a soundproof barrier and every open seam or area caulked. |
Anonymous
Yes, they have to seal the seams or noise can escape. The drywall and green glue act as a sound barrier. |
Anonymous
| 2 inches out doesn’t seem like it’s taking too much wall space. |
Anonymous
| How is the wall supported? Is it brick or wood framing? |
Anonymous
hey hey, 2 inches is 2 inches
|
Anonymous
| We had to forgo the space to put up a 3" soundproofing wall. Grand piano on the other side of our bedroom. Oddly, we never missed the inches. (When it comes to bedrooms. 🤣) |
Anonymous
| Tear down the plaster and replace with a brick wall. We did this for my grandmother's townhouse. You can't hear a thing. |