Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:I’m sorry OP. We are going through the same situation. Hit by an at-fault cited driver, and our car which had no issues was a total loss.
Insurance payout is about 5K less than what we would need to buy same year/model versus about 10K for new. We are leaning toward buying new during end of the year close out. It really is horrible when you are out of pocket for someone else’s dangerous driving.
Did you get your insurance to help you navigate this?
Did you contest the amount of your car buyout?
Anonymous wrote:I wouldn’t buy a kid going off to college a new car especially if he’s already been in an accident. A car should be earned nof just given.
Anonymous wrote:Get him a CX-30 new with no extras. Awesome car for new driver, cheap and safe.
Anonymous wrote:I’m sorry OP. We are going through the same situation. Hit by an at-fault cited driver, and our car which had no issues was a total loss.
Insurance payout is about 5K less than what we would need to buy same year/model versus about 10K for new. We are leaning toward buying new during end of the year close out. It really is horrible when you are out of pocket for someone else’s dangerous driving.
Anonymous wrote:Mazdas suck. Your kid needs a used Honda CRV. End of story.
Anonymous wrote:I'm getting 4k off MSRP so paying same amount for new 2025 as I did for new 2022 when I got it. Isn't that good or am I missing something? I think it's the idea of a new car for a 20 year old that's bothering me.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:OP, it is a bit hard to understand what help you need from the board. Do you just want to replace the totaled car with the exactly same make/model? And not spend more than the insurance payout? Do you know how much insurance will pay? If not, go on any online car site and enter your car make/model/year/mileage range. It will show what is available for sale in your area. Take the average price of that and you got your insurance payout. Regarding buying new or used I think that a used non CPO car under 36k and 3 year (meaning still under bumper to bumper warranty) can get you the best combo of price and warranty.
Yes I saw one at an auto mall type place. (Are those legit?) and it's about 26k before fees so maybe 4k less than new. But then won't get the 2.9 APR. and they haven't called me back lol