Anonymous wrote:
Anonymous wrote:The one note I have is that why is Marian consistly the worst dressed during these ball scenes?
Agree. Do the costume designers have it in for her?
She's had some beautiful costumes, but yes her ball dress was tacky and silly looking with those big black floofs on the bright reddish pink.
However, I actually feel the ball gowns (for the white people ball) were intentionally discordant with a lot of choices that were not that pretty or flattering. Bertha looked great, as did Gladys. This makes sense because it was their ball and their triumph -- here is Bertha ascendant, taking over the end of season ball from Mrs. Astor, and here is Gladys returning as a Duchess. Their dresses looked modern but not groundbreaking. The quality of the fabric and the brightness of the color are both meant to showcase their wealth. They depended on lots of jewels and tiaras for adornment over fussy embellishments on their dresses, because they can and it highlights Gladys's new status.
Noticeably, Mrs. Fish was also dressed in this style, showing her alignment with the Russells and the new guard even as she maintains her relationships with all the old 400. Bright colors, similar fabrics.
Then you have the old money set -- Agnes and Ada looked dour and over done, as they always do. Huge bustles, dark and fussy clothes, super high necks with tons of fringe and crap on them. It looks about 10 years out of date because it is, even if those dresses were newly made.
Mrs. Astor also showed up repping old money, wearing a dress that looked like it was literally made out of upholstery, also dark colors, but she's a more elegant woman with better style overall, so it looked better. Still this big and elaborate bustle but she also had a killer necklace on, because the Astors may not be British royals but they've got plenty of the old jewels and haven't had to sell them off for cash like the Van Rhyns.
Then you have the old money next gen, with Marian and Mrs. Astor's daughter (sorry blanking on her name). I found these to easily be the two ugliest dresses of the night. They were also two of the most modern dresses. The neckline on the Astor daughter, in particular, was very fashion van guard. I also think it wasn't flattering on her at all, elongating her already long face and long neck with a deep V. But the color was beautiful and the fabric adornment much more modern and updated than what you see on her mom or Agnes and Ada, with the embellishments sewn into the fabric instead of tacked on. Marian's dress was also pretty cutting edge (for the time) with the very rich color but the light and transparent fabric. Not heavy at all. These two were giving a peek at where fashion goes as the turn of the century nears, and also how technological improvements of the industrial age are reaching the garment industry and allowing for a much broader range of fabrications. I expect we'll see a LOT more of this in the next season, especially as Marian gets married and suddenly has access to Larry's money.
Then you have Mrs. Winterton who was wearing sort of old money drag -- it's got all the hallmarks but it looks cheap somehow. It's like the rich lady version of how Maud Beaton was dressed at the "house of ill repute" and I don't think that comparison was accidental given where her storyline with Oscar is headed. It will be interesting to see how she fits into society if/when she marries Oscar. She only got the ball invite at his request, but marrying into his family name will legitimize her in a way that marrying old man Winterton did not (though that got her money).
Oh and this isn't the ball but I want to note: the dress Bridget wears to Jack's house is easily the most luxurious thing we've ever seen a servant wear on the show while she's still working as a servant, and initially it felt very anachronistic to me, but then I remembered that Jack gave her a return on her investment in his clock and of course she spent it on a dress, that's exactly how someone in her situation would spend it. And then this results in her looking correct when Jack asks her to sit down and dine with him, instead of looking like a house maid sitting at the master's table. It was a nice little detail and I liked how it could be explained and then how it shows the way Jack and Bridget are set to represent a new kind of American, a sort of person who will come to define the country in the 20th century in a way that neither the old money Astors nor the robber baron Russells will -- immigrants from nothing who use hard work and ingenuity to build wealth and fortune. It's genuinely thrilling and for my many the best writing on the show right now. I wish they were nailing Peggy's story with the same deftness because her story, of a writer and activist who also winds up transcending class and racial boundaries through skill, passion, and good timing, is a similar sign of the future.