Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Make sure your GL or Halti is fitted properly. Sometimes, one halter fits better than the other. Don't just slap one on the dog and go; I know of no dogs that tolerate it off-hand, and if the dog is trying to get it off their face, it will cause more damage. So, slowly introduce the halter, with positive reinforcement (the really good stuff, like cheese or hot dogs). Do not EVER use it with a longer leash. 6' max.

There is nothing wrong with using a properly fitted prong, either. Use small prongs; micro might be even better (regardless of the size of the dog). The fit is really important, and your prongs must sit right behind the ear, not down on the neck. You do not correct the dog on it; the dog should self correct. ALWAYS back the dog up onto a non-slip collar. Under the right set of circumstances, the prong can pop open, leaving you with a loose dog, otherwise.

Yes, this is what we're doing. My god soggy ham is cold on the fingers in January. Ordered some freeze dried liver.

We are doing what the video said- lots of rewards to put it on, had her wear it around the house for a few min at a time, now we're having her wear it on walks but not with the leash attached yet. And lots of wet ham. So far so good.

LOL! I don't know if ham would work this way, but if you cut up hot dogs (no bigger than the nail on your pinky finger), spread them out on a plate, and nuke them on low for a long period of time, you'll end up with shoe leather hot dogs. Not slimy, easy to handle, and while you do have to store in the refrigerator, it is so easy to work with.

This is a pro tip! Thank you!

+1, thanks. Working with an 8mo large mixed breed who is also not very food motivated, will have to try this!

You can also try stinkier treats for a dog that is not very food motivated - bratwurst and kielbasa, for instance. One thing you can also do, is to put your stinky meats in a container of Cheerios, and store the whole thing in the refrigerator. The stink permeates everything, and it can make dogs more motivated to work for lower value treats. It's also somewhat healthier.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Make sure your GL or Halti is fitted properly. Sometimes, one halter fits better than the other. Don't just slap one on the dog and go; I know of no dogs that tolerate it off-hand, and if the dog is trying to get it off their face, it will cause more damage. So, slowly introduce the halter, with positive reinforcement (the really good stuff, like cheese or hot dogs). Do not EVER use it with a longer leash. 6' max.

There is nothing wrong with using a properly fitted prong, either. Use small prongs; micro might be even better (regardless of the size of the dog). The fit is really important, and your prongs must sit right behind the ear, not down on the neck. You do not correct the dog on it; the dog should self correct. ALWAYS back the dog up onto a non-slip collar. Under the right set of circumstances, the prong can pop open, leaving you with a loose dog, otherwise.

Yes, this is what we're doing. My god soggy ham is cold on the fingers in January. Ordered some freeze dried liver.

We are doing what the video said- lots of rewards to put it on, had her wear it around the house for a few min at a time, now we're having her wear it on walks but not with the leash attached yet. And lots of wet ham. So far so good.

LOL! I don't know if ham would work this way, but if you cut up hot dogs (no bigger than the nail on your pinky finger), spread them out on a plate, and nuke them on low for a long period of time, you'll end up with shoe leather hot dogs. Not slimy, easy to handle, and while you do have to store in the refrigerator, it is so easy to work with.

This is a pro tip! Thank you!

+1, thanks. Working with an 8mo large mixed breed who is also not very food motivated, will have to try this!

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Make sure your GL or Halti is fitted properly. Sometimes, one halter fits better than the other. Don't just slap one on the dog and go; I know of no dogs that tolerate it off-hand, and if the dog is trying to get it off their face, it will cause more damage. So, slowly introduce the halter, with positive reinforcement (the really good stuff, like cheese or hot dogs). Do not EVER use it with a longer leash. 6' max.

There is nothing wrong with using a properly fitted prong, either. Use small prongs; micro might be even better (regardless of the size of the dog). The fit is really important, and your prongs must sit right behind the ear, not down on the neck. You do not correct the dog on it; the dog should self correct. ALWAYS back the dog up onto a non-slip collar. Under the right set of circumstances, the prong can pop open, leaving you with a loose dog, otherwise.

Yes, this is what we're doing. My god soggy ham is cold on the fingers in January. Ordered some freeze dried liver.

We are doing what the video said- lots of rewards to put it on, had her wear it around the house for a few min at a time, now we're having her wear it on walks but not with the leash attached yet. And lots of wet ham. So far so good.

LOL! I don't know if ham would work this way, but if you cut up hot dogs (no bigger than the nail on your pinky finger), spread them out on a plate, and nuke them on low for a long period of time, you'll end up with shoe leather hot dogs. Not slimy, easy to handle, and while you do have to store in the refrigerator, it is so easy to work with.

This is a pro tip! Thank you!

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Make sure your GL or Halti is fitted properly. Sometimes, one halter fits better than the other. Don't just slap one on the dog and go; I know of no dogs that tolerate it off-hand, and if the dog is trying to get it off their face, it will cause more damage. So, slowly introduce the halter, with positive reinforcement (the really good stuff, like cheese or hot dogs). Do not EVER use it with a longer leash. 6' max.

There is nothing wrong with using a properly fitted prong, either. Use small prongs; micro might be even better (regardless of the size of the dog). The fit is really important, and your prongs must sit right behind the ear, not down on the neck. You do not correct the dog on it; the dog should self correct. ALWAYS back the dog up onto a non-slip collar. Under the right set of circumstances, the prong can pop open, leaving you with a loose dog, otherwise.

Yes, this is what we're doing. My god soggy ham is cold on the fingers in January. Ordered some freeze dried liver.

We are doing what the video said- lots of rewards to put it on, had her wear it around the house for a few min at a time, now we're having her wear it on walks but not with the leash attached yet. And lots of wet ham. So far so good.

LOL! I don't know if ham would work this way, but if you cut up hot dogs (no bigger than the nail on your pinky finger), spread them out on a plate, and nuke them on low for a long period of time, you'll end up with shoe leather hot dogs. Not slimy, easy to handle, and while you do have to store in the refrigerator, it is so easy to work with.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I'm a trainer. We have Germans Shepherds so it's critical that they learn not to pull early. It's not a tool we recommend at all. Dogs have been seriously injured by a gentle leader. Use a prong (NOT PINCH) collar for pulling.

Different poster-- We have a 4 month German Shepherd. I've gotten conflicting advice about when to start the prong. Some say wait until 6 months, others say start now.

When would you say is the best time to introduce it? Also, I've also been told the prong can make the dog more reactive so it's best to use a martingale. Do you find that to be true? It's very confusing.

Right now we aren't doing many neighborhood walks (lots of play in yard and woodsy walks with a long lead) but once we do, we need better control because he does pull.

I would not use a management collar on a puppy. They're a clean slate. Teach them to loose leash walk in the first place. You don't want to start with a crutch that you have to transition from later. If you have a hallway in the house, practice walking next to you, with no leash. Once he understands that the position (next to your side) and attention (to you) is what gets him rewarded, add the leash. You do quick sessions, no more than a few minutes at a time, but if you can manage, do it many times during the day.

Have a professional who uses the gentle leader show you how to use. Smooth, fluid movements are a must. Additionally follow the instructions for introducing the gentle leader. https://centerforshelterdogs.tufts.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/IntroductionGentleLeader.pdf

Anonymous wrote:I'm a trainer. We have Germans Shepherds so it's critical that they learn not to pull early. It's not a tool we recommend at all. Dogs have been seriously injured by a gentle leader. Use a prong (NOT PINCH) collar for pulling.

Different poster-- We have a 4 month German Shepherd. I've gotten conflicting advice about when to start the prong. Some say wait until 6 months, others say start now.

When would you say is the best time to introduce it? Also, I've also been told the prong can make the dog more reactive so it's best to use a martingale. Do you find that to be true? It's very confusing.

Right now we aren't doing many neighborhood walks (lots of play in yard and woodsy walks with a long lead) but once we do, we need better control because he does pull.

Anonymous wrote:Make sure your GL or Halti is fitted properly. Sometimes, one halter fits better than the other. Don't just slap one on the dog and go; I know of no dogs that tolerate it off-hand, and if the dog is trying to get it off their face, it will cause more damage. So, slowly introduce the halter, with positive reinforcement (the really good stuff, like cheese or hot dogs). Do not EVER use it with a longer leash. 6' max.

There is nothing wrong with using a properly fitted prong, either. Use small prongs; micro might be even better (regardless of the size of the dog). The fit is really important, and your prongs must sit right behind the ear, not down on the neck. You do not correct the dog on it; the dog should self correct. ALWAYS back the dog up onto a non-slip collar. Under the right set of circumstances, the prong can pop open, leaving you with a loose dog, otherwise.

Yes, this is what we're doing. My god soggy ham is cold on the fingers in January. Ordered some freeze dried liver.

We are doing what the video said- lots of rewards to put it on, had her wear it around the house for a few min at a time, now we're having her wear it on walks but not with the leash attached yet. And lots of wet ham. So far so good.

OP, people all use the tools that they are comfortable with and that work for their dog.

A GL doesn’t fix the problem. You’re still going to have to work with your dog. And I don’t want to sound rude, but a 28lb dog should absolutely not be able to pull you down the street. Are you using a flexible lead? If so, that’s the first thing to go in the garbage. A dog will pull itself out of anything if the reward is bigger than what you’re offering. You say your dog ain’t food motivated, but it sounds like they’re walk motivated. So, the answer is STOP IN YOUR TRACKS or turn directly around when they pull. The minute that lead comes to tension do an about face and walk the other way, while saying “whoops” or whatever your training word is.

Make sure your GL or Halti is fitted properly. Sometimes, one halter fits better than the other. Don't just slap one on the dog and go; I know of no dogs that tolerate it off-hand, and if the dog is trying to get it off their face, it will cause more damage. So, slowly introduce the halter, with positive reinforcement (the really good stuff, like cheese or hot dogs). Do not EVER use it with a longer leash. 6' max.

There is nothing wrong with using a properly fitted prong, either. Use small prongs; micro might be even better (regardless of the size of the dog). The fit is really important, and your prongs must sit right behind the ear, not down on the neck. You do not correct the dog on it; the dog should self correct. ALWAYS back the dog up onto a non-slip collar. Under the right set of circumstances, the prong can pop open, leaving you with a loose dog, otherwise.

Anonymous wrote:Gentle leader works well for our labradoodle. It's not going to hurt his muzzle or anything like that. It took a little getting used to, only because he would try to pull it off with his paw, and then he got used to it. Otherwise, I can't stand the constant pulling.

One thing I have learned is that there will always be someone online who will tell you that whatever choice you made is horribly wrong. And half of them will claim to be experts.

The part that surprised me is that, while this dynamic exists on parenting matters, it's 10x worse with dogs.

Hahahaha. Thank you for that.

Gentle leader works well for our labradoodle. It's not going to hurt his muzzle or anything like that. It took a little getting used to, only because he would try to pull it off with his paw, and then he got used to it. Otherwise, I can't stand the constant pulling.

One thing I have learned is that there will always be someone online who will tell you that whatever choice you made is horribly wrong. And half of them will claim to be experts.

The part that surprised me is that, while this dynamic exists on parenting matters, it's 10x worse with dogs.

We used the Herm Sprenger on 2 Border collies, a Great Pyrenees, and a St Bernard mix.

The collar doesn't engage unless they pull. Even the smaller, sensitive collie had no ill effects from it.

We only needed to use it a few times before they didn't need it any more.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I'm a trainer. We have Germans Shepherds so it's critical that they learn not to pull early. It's not a tool we recommend at all. Dogs have been seriously injured by a gentle leader. Use a prong (NOT PINCH) collar for pulling.

The humane society says not to use prong collars and that gentle leaders are a better choice. We've tried martingdale and chain collars and she still pulls.

https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/dog-collars

As a trainer, the humane society wouldn't be my go to resource. All collars are not created equally. The Herm Sprenger is generally considered the beast training tool.

Pp whose trainer said to use a prong collar here. The Herm Sprenger is what we use. The reason the gentle leader is supposed to be bad is it could damage their nose/muzzle. I don’t remember the specifics, but we never even tried it because the prong collar works so well. We have a very strong boxer mix so we needed something that works!

OP here - my issue is sort of different - I have a small doodle who, though she is only 28 lbs, can almost drag me down the block. But because she is so small (and oddly has thin fur) she gets blisters and sores from big collars. Also she's totally not food motivated. The gentle leader seems like a good option because it's very small and light.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I'm a trainer. We have Germans Shepherds so it's critical that they learn not to pull early. It's not a tool we recommend at all. Dogs have been seriously injured by a gentle leader. Use a prong (NOT PINCH) collar for pulling.

The humane society says not to use prong collars and that gentle leaders are a better choice. We've tried martingdale and chain collars and she still pulls.

https://www.humanesociety.org/resources/dog-collars

As a trainer, the humane society wouldn't be my go to resource. All collars are not created equally. The Herm Sprenger is generally considered the beast training tool.

Pp whose trainer said to use a prong collar here. The Herm Sprenger is what we use. The reason the gentle leader is supposed to be bad is it could damage their nose/muzzle. I don’t remember the specifics, but we never even tried it because the prong collar works so well. We have a very strong boxer mix so we needed something that works!