Check your refrigerator manual (it's probably online if you can't find it). Some models do have ways of restricting how far a door can swing open.

I think I understand that it is not a case of the refrigerator being too deep or the alcove being too shallow. That is not the problem. The problem is when the fridge is fully pushed into its alcove, the door swings into the counter next to the fridge. Most people don't have this problem because they don't have counter-depth refrigerators. I just checked mine and it extends way past the counter next to it.

One possible solution is to see if a fridge that has a center drawer at the same height as the counter. Something like this: http://www.sears.com/lg-23-cu-ft-counter-depth-4-door-refrigerator/p-04608743000P?sellerId=SEARS&prdNo=14&blockNo=14&blockType=G14
If you're lucky, the fridge door would swing above the counter next to it. The only other option I can think of is to get rid of the counter and cabinet next to the fridge. If all else fails, get rid of the counter-depth fridge and go with a deeper one that will push all the way in and still stick out. At least that way, you'll get the extra fridge space that comes with a full-depth fridge.

Anonymous wrote:We had a custom kitchen built for us from the studs. When we rolled the french door refrigerator in, it looked great. However, the contractor mis-measured and the doors hit the granite countertop when opened all the way. He "fixed" it by nailing in a 2x4 in the back of the refrigerator well so while the fridge opens completely, it sticks out quite a bit. So you can see a 4-inch piece of the black back part of the fridge from the sides.

It really bothers me, and this is our 2nd year in this kitchen. I knew that the only way to fix it was to re-do all the cabinets and granite and so I just grinned and bear it, but now I want it fixed. What can I do? Is there a way to fiddle with the refrigerator door so it doesn't open all the way? We will not be able to re-do the cabinets because it's expensive and seems like a waste.

Has this happened to anyone before? I imagine the contractor measured the space for the refrigerator but didn't realize how far the doors open. (It's counter-depth, not regular, so I'm really annoyed that he didn't think to check this first.)

Thanks for any advice

How deep is the opening for the fridge? My wood around he counter depth is 24.25. We couldn't extend the wood because we have high ceilings and soffits alreay existed. There can be pipes and ducts in those soffits. The way for a conractor to fix it is taking out the upper above the fridge -new wood sides and new uppers reusing the old doors. They are attached to wall so the box wouldn't be deep enough.

Most fridges that are counter depth are designed for 36 or 42 in openings. Just be glad you got the profile-install specs require 1/8 in SIDE clearance for GE [fan in back plus water hookup. Samsung is 3/8 on side -not functional as a replacement product for 36 in openings.

I agree that this needed to be rectified while contractor was still working on kitchen. Note to all people who are mulling over house renovation. You reach a point of desperation about wanting the job finished: Do not let those eager feelings taint your judgement and insist things be done right, even though it adds another delay. The problem with home repairs is that you get stuck having to live with--literally--the job you sign off on...

I can't quite picture the problem, although I do understand the problem cognitively. Seems to me the options to explore might be: can you get a fridge that is less deep? Fridges come in a huge number of dimensions and I would not be surprised at all if you can't find one that is shallower. Can you get a fridge in which the door hangs on the other side (or could be hung on the other side), so that clearance isn't an issue? If you match your other appliances for color, believe me no one will notice that they are different brands. We have a JennAir stove, Whirlpool washer, Kitchen Aid fridge, and GE Profile microwave but all are in brushed stainless and it's really not a problem.

If changing the appliance is absolutely not possible, next you can look at the cabinetry. Bring your kitchen designer back in. There may be a change that can be made to the cabinetry next to the fridge that could be traded for a narrower piece. You will probably have to pay a lot of money to have counter lifted, etc. There may be a panel piece you can buy or custom purchase to cover the part of the fridge that sticks out.

If you weren't aware there is a cling that has a stainless steel appearance. I would start by custom cutting and running the cling along the sides of the fridge so the black isn't visible. This would be maybe 20 or 30 bucks. If you still aren't happy with it at that point I would see about shaving the corner of the cabinets and granite.

We had a similar problem. We had the wall opened up and studs removed so that the fridge would slide back into a recess in the wall. They finished off the edges and it looked very nice. Of course, the wall behind the fridge was just wallboard thin, so you couldn't really hang anything on it!