Our own experience was that email quotes were very hard to get, they kept wanting us to come in or they would call us. As has happened for us most times we have bought a car, wewent with the dealer who was easiest. Buying a car today is in general much easier than before because of all of the information available, including prices, and the question is often how much work you are willing to do to shave a few hundred dollars off the price. If you are willing to buy a used car, MemberCar in Rockville was very easy to deal with, non haggle prices but they do not have a lot of SUVs.

Anonymous wrote:Have you been to true car.com? I found it useful.

Here's what I did:
* I called every single dealer in a hundred mile radius and told them I was buying a car today. They all tried to get me to come in. I said no and explained they could give me their rock bottom price and whomever had the lowest price in an hour got me. I also told them I was financing. (They get more $$$ if they sell you financing)

We did this too, except DH emailed a bunch of dealerships, cc'ed them all, and then asked for responses to who would match X price on this car with ABC options. Then we went in and bought. It was super easy and no haggling once we got there.

One thing where to be careful is asking for quotes through Edmunds. Many dealers will reply that the have the car you have asked for...but they don't have exactly to option package you defined and they are trying to match their inventory just to drag you into their store.

Always good to have a loan rate from a credit union or USAA before you go in.

Do test drive all the cars first, without going into a pricing negotiation.

Also, as someone above indicated do NOT even mention that you might trade in your car at the beginning of any price conversation. Do that on the back end with a CarMax quote in hand...in some cases they will tell you, you will get more at CarMax.

Locally, we have bought cars at various points in the last 15 years from Ourisman Fairfax Toyota (2), Stohlman Subaru, Fitzgerald Subaru (2) and Pohanka Acura. Hated the experience at Pohanka. The others were fine, but you will have to sit through all the extended warranty yada yada yada sales jobs (don't buy them)...but it is part of the process.

Anonymous wrote:OP here, thank you again to everybody, everything each of you said was really useful. we decided to keep the car, the mechanic said that there is a cluch problem and fixing wil be around $1100, including labor, and we may have to change the breakes. other than that, the car seem solid and runs well, so it makes sense to fix it. I am very happy, but I have the impression that my DH is secretly mourning the sudden death of his dream of a new car

Good for you!!!

OP here, thank you again to everybody, everything each of you said was really useful. we decided to keep the car, the mechanic said that there is a cluch problem and fixing wil be around $1100, including labor, and we may have to change the breakes. other than that, the car seem solid and runs well, so it makes sense to fix it. I am very happy, but I have the impression that my DH is secretly mourning the sudden death of his dream of a new car

Use a car-buying service if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself.

This is the way to go.

http://www.checkbook.org/auto/carbarg.cfm

I bought the book "Don't Get Taken Every Time" by Remar Sutton. The writing style is atrocious and it's unnecessarily long-winded, but I learned a lot about the process. I checked the online inventory for the car I wanted (used) and then emailed to schedule an appointment to see it. The first place I went to pulled every trick in the book (the actual book I referenced above). I couldn't believe it. I had them give me their bottom line price with all the line items revealed, and they had thrown in some ridiculous bullshit with all kinds of invented explanations.

So, long story short, I was very organized. Had a folder with each car I wanted to look at printed out. Had copies of my driver's license so they had no reason to take my actual license (and hold onto it so I couldn't leave...happened to a friend of mine once). I gave them my bottom line price and they balked and I started walking out. They called me back. Tried to get me to give them more. I said no and stood up to leave again. Then the sales manager said, "Sell her the car," and stormed off. They couldn't get me out of there fast enough! We breezed through the paperwork and were out of there in an hour and a half (from the time I walked in the door + test drive + negotiations + paperwork). Good luck! It was actually kind of fun!

I agree, a Honda with 59K miles is just getting broken in. Our 98 Honda is approaching 200K and is still running great.

It sounds like you just have a worn clutch. I'd get that checked out before I went and bought a new car.

Are you joking, OP? Trade in a 2005 Honda Accord? We have a 13 year old Honda with 165K miles on it that runs great. Body is a little scratched and battered, but the car is fantastic. Costs a thousand here and there for repairs, but to replace it would cost $25k or more. I can't afford NOT to keep it.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:OP here, thank you so much for all the suggestions. I actually would like to keep the car, it has only 59K miles and we put 4 new tires last August. the issue is the clutch problem the car is having, my DH thinks it may be expensive to fix (~2K), and in the past we had a car (12 years and 100K) that broke and we decided to fix it ending up spending over 3K in less than 2 years, always thinking that it was the last repair. I know this car is a much better candidate for fixing. we are taking it to a shop and ask for what is the problem exactly and the cost for fixing it, and then we will decide. thank you again

2k verse 20+K plus interest. That's a no brainer.

Seriously!!! Fix the car and don't do a trade in.

If you belong to a credit union look into financing there--ours has always beat what the dealers offer and USAA's rates as well. They also have buying programs similar to what aaa and Costco offer.

Agree though that it makes more sense to keep your old car.

Anonymous wrote:We had a really good experience with Fitzgerald Hyundai/Subaru in White Flint (I think Fitzgerald has dealerships for all major brands)--it's a no-haggle dealership, and I think they treated us fairly and gave us a fair value for our trade-in. You might want to see what prices they're listing for the models you're interested in and what deals the manufacturers are offering.

Second vote for this dealership. We bought our first car recently through them, a Hyundai. They were very straightforward. They were willing to negotiate a teeny bit but not much. We priced the same car at some other places for comparison's sake and Fitzgerald was the best -- their initial price was far lower than any of the others and within a couple hundred dollars of what we settled on. They have other locations that sell different brands. I would definitely consider going with them if they sell the car you want.

Anonymous wrote:OP here, thank you so much for all the suggestions. I actually would like to keep the car, it has only 59K miles and we put 4 new tires last August. the issue is the clutch problem the car is having, my DH thinks it may be expensive to fix (~2K), and in the past we had a car (12 years and 100K) that broke and we decided to fix it ending up spending over 3K in less than 2 years, always thinking that it was the last repair. I know this car is a much better candidate for fixing. we are taking it to a shop and ask for what is the problem exactly and the cost for fixing it, and then we will decide. thank you again

2k verse 20+K plus interest. That's a no brainer.

All of this is good advice but it is also worth it to just ask around to folks in the area about which dealers are non-sleazy to work with. I both bargained and went with a dealer that didn't make my skin crawl and think they're both worthwhile factors. (I didn't buy any of the cars you're looking at, though, so I'm sorry I don't have specific dealer names for you.)