Anonymous wrote:jfc

Is all the mechanical talk giving you a headache? That liberal arts degree not helping you keep up with the conversation?

jfc

The prices you are quoting are ridiculous. The gas station where I got my car inspected replaced the front pads for $100. I usually wouldn’t pay someone to replace them but he was in the middle of an inspection so I let them go ahead and do it. As someone else said it’s about an hour if you do it yourself. You can look it up on YouTube or get a Hanes repair manual. New pads for two wheels cost somewhere between 20 and $50. look on Amazon and buy the lowest priced brand name pads you can find. That will do it.

About the rotors. Two people have said something that is incorrect. If the brake pedal pulsates, that is because the pads are worn out. They are configured to cause the brake pedal to pulsate when they are worn out. It is an intentional indicator.

If the steering wheel shakes when you step on the brakes, the brake discs are warped. If they are warped there are two solutions: buy new discs or have them turned on A lathe. If you opt to have them turned on a lathe, I highly recommend doing at it at a place that turns them on a lathe when the rotors are still on the car. Some Pep Boys do that. The reason to do it that way is that any imperfection in the hub and any imperfection in the disc gets ground out of the desk so the disc face runs exactly true. Sometimes even new discs warp and give you a shaking steering wheel when you step on the brakes, and then you have to have them turned on a lathe at Pep Boys, or replace them again.

So, if the steering wheel isn’t shaking when you step on the brakes have the pads replaced. Or replace them yourself. What type of pads, you ask? There are three options. Organic pads are the softest so if you use those they won’t last as long as harder pads but they will allow your discs to last for the life of the car. Semi metallic pads are harder so they will last longer. They will also work better when you are breaking hard for a long distance because they dissipate heat from the desk better. So they are good if you pull a trailer. Ceramic pads are hardest and they will last the longest but they will also wear out your desks. They will also leave your wheel cleaner than the semi metallic pads will.

If you get up the gumption to do this yourself I suggest you drop in some ceramic pads from Amazon and leave it at that.

Just FYI if you’re going someplace like Mr. Tire they are scammers. They’ll tell you that you need new brake pads, rotors, etc. even if they are pristine. You need to find a non-chain auto mechanic that you trust.

you people are bananas. just guessing that someone crowdsourcing info about their brakes aren't doing the work themselves. I think that is clear.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Check rotor thickness. If it’s within specs and they’re not warped (manifested as a “pulsating” feeling in the pedal when moderate braking pedal force at 25-50 mph) then just do pads.

You can do the pads yourself with simple tools. A few sizes of sockets, some needle nose pliers, a large “C” clamp or brake piston compression tool, and some brake cleaner and caliper slide grease. That’s all you need. I’ve replaced brake pads in grocery store parking lots while my wife was inside shopping. It’s that fast/easy.

Klassy

You know what’s klassy? Keeping the $600-$800 that imbeciles like you give to other people to do simple repairs that I can do myself.

Jeeez. I just paid $1,737 for pads and rotors front and back.

I want to lean how to do this myself next time. Where do I start?

You don’t need to change rotors. Changing pads is relatively easy. Search YouTube for your make and model brake change and you will get plenty of videos explaining how to do it and what tools you need. Basically you need to take a wheel off, undo one caliper bolt, pull old pads out, compress the caliper and slap new pads on.