Anonymous wrote:I did 30 but cancelled after about 20. Yes, it cost me a modest amount more but it gave me flexibility as I can’t predict 20 years out.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:You only need 30 if you won’t already be rich at the end of 20. If DH dies in the 21st year, I’ll be just fine.
Lol, that is the spirit
Anonymous wrote:.Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:I actually think almost everyone here is wrong. A 20 year is what you need and want. The extra $50 is effectively gambling for a return. If you want to do that I have no objection, but recognize it for what it is.
This guy is correct. You are not insuring against a possible liability beyond 20 years. Your mids will be well established. you are just speculating on your own death.
No. Risk/reward says you take the longest term you could plausibly need.
I’m the broker PP and I can’t tell you how many times people develop some major health condition before the end of their term and still need insurance beyond this term for a variety of reasons.
As an example, I had a guy who was diagnosed with cancer one year before the end of his term. Therefore, he would be uninsurable for many years even after remission, if he were to in fact survive the cancer. He was well-off but still had loans in his business and wanted/needed life insurance to provide some liquidity in the event of his death.
Since he was uninsurable, the only way to extend coverage was to do a conversion of his existing term policy into an indexed universal life policy (which is contractually guaranteed even if one’s health changes). His premium went from $4,000 per year on the term policy (he was a smoker) to about $20,000 per year on the universal life policy. It was great for me – I made a $22,000 commission on that sale – but it was a totally avoidable situation for him if he had just done a longer term. (He initially did a 10-year term at age 50, thinking he probably would not need coverage beyond age 60).
And of course, as others have mentioned, even if you get a 30-year term, you can always drop it after 20 years if you no longer need it. Trust me, there’s no scenario in which the risk/reward calculation does not heavily favor buying the longest term you might plausibly need.
Brokers are literally the last people I would trust on this since they have a vested interest in selling as much insurance as possible. I therefore don’t trust you. And as an economist I am very familiar with risk/reward calculations, and I assure you that you are wrong.
Anonymous wrote:You only need 30 if you won’t already be rich at the end of 20. If DH dies in the 21st year, I’ll be just fine.
.Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:I actually think almost everyone here is wrong. A 20 year is what you need and want. The extra $50 is effectively gambling for a return. If you want to do that I have no objection, but recognize it for what it is.
This guy is correct. You are not insuring against a possible liability beyond 20 years. Your mids will be well established. you are just speculating on your own death.
No. Risk/reward says you take the longest term you could plausibly need.
I’m the broker PP and I can’t tell you how many times people develop some major health condition before the end of their term and still need insurance beyond this term for a variety of reasons.
As an example, I had a guy who was diagnosed with cancer one year before the end of his term. Therefore, he would be uninsurable for many years even after remission, if he were to in fact survive the cancer. He was well-off but still had loans in his business and wanted/needed life insurance to provide some liquidity in the event of his death.
Since he was uninsurable, the only way to extend coverage was to do a conversion of his existing term policy into an indexed universal life policy (which is contractually guaranteed even if one’s health changes). His premium went from $4,000 per year on the term policy (he was a smoker) to about $20,000 per year on the universal life policy. It was great for me – I made a $22,000 commission on that sale – but it was a totally avoidable situation for him if he had just done a longer term. (He initially did a 10-year term at age 50, thinking he probably would not need coverage beyond age 60).
And of course, as others have mentioned, even if you get a 30-year term, you can always drop it after 20 years if you no longer need it. Trust me, there’s no scenario in which the risk/reward calculation does not heavily favor buying the longest term you might plausibly need.
Anonymous wrote:I am getting a term life and the beneficiaries will be my two minor kids (age 11 and 9). I am most inclined to a 20 year one but wonder if 30year would make more sense. The monthly difference is ~$50 for 2m and ~$40 for 1.5m
Technically 20 year would suffice since my kids will be 31 and 29 and will be able to support themselves but I also want to build a bigger safety net for them whenever I can. Plus I have 27 years left on mt mortgage. Am I worrying too much?
Anonymous wrote:My husband who is in the insurance industry just told my friend to get it until her kid is 18 or 21.
I feel we are over-insured. He just told me he has a 20 year one expiring in the next year - that surprised me since we have been married 17 years and our oldest child is 14. He apparently got it when we were engaged and has me as my maiden name as the beneficiary.
In terms of what he wants to give our kids as a safety net - he also has a universal life insurance policy. I think at 20 years we can get back what we paid in OR elect to keep paying it for a death benefit. I told him we can decide what to do with it in 10 years when we need to make the decision.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:I actually think almost everyone here is wrong. A 20 year is what you need and want. The extra $50 is effectively gambling for a return. If you want to do that I have no objection, but recognize it for what it is.
This guy is correct. You are not insuring against a possible liability beyond 20 years. Your mids will be well established. you are just speculating on your own death.
Anonymous wrote:I actually think almost everyone here is wrong. A 20 year is what you need and want. The extra $50 is effectively gambling for a return. If you want to do that I have no objection, but recognize it for what it is.