Anonymous wrote:Does it happen when inside is really hot? or not temp dependent?

^^^^ This ^^^^

Hot engines are harder to re-start because the fuel mixture is already lean, especially with higher mileage engines.

Anonymous wrote:I had this in my ancient Accord and it was the ignition coil. I got it replaced and voila, no more intermittent starting.

A bad ignition coil will usually manifest itself with engine cranking but no start, as well as a misfire. You would typically replace the plugs and coils for all cylinders. Did you mean ignition cylinder?

Try this OP: When you put the key in make sure you push it toward the steering column when you turn it. I found this fix on the internet for my car and when I do that it starts first time every time. I would have never even tried it without googling for troubleshooting tips.

I had this in my ancient Accord and it was the ignition coil. I got it replaced and voila, no more intermittent starting.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:You need a new battery, OP.

No, the battery either works, or doesn’t. This is in the ignition system, either starter, key, or switch.

This is not correct. Have had this exact sequence of events with a battery that finally totally died on multiple occasions. OP changed it recently anyway though.

My 2016 Honda Pilot did this for a while. When I brought it to be serviced, the dealership knew immediately - it was an issue with the ignition. They actually had a sample sitting out at the service desk because they had to do this repair so frequently. I think mine was covered by warranty. I waited too long to get mine fixed though and it was becoming sort of ridiculous that I never was quite sure if my car would start. Get it fixed ASAP OP.

OP, you need to have a proper diagnosis by a competent mechanic. It’s not unheard of for a replaced part to fail, such as a starter/solenoid. You should check that your battery cables are tightly connected to the battery and are free of corrosion. The clamps shouldn’t move if you try to wiggle them back and forth. Otherwise you might be looking at an issue with a worn out key or lock cylinder. Is there a spare key you can try using to rule out the former?

Also does the No start condition typically occur only on the first try? Or does it happen on a second or third try? Does it only happen when the wheel is turned to the left or right? Does the key feel loose when it’s in the ignition lock cylinder?

The starter system is relatively simple. Generally speaking, when you turn the key, an electrical signal is sent from the ignition switch to a relay under the hood which then sends a signal to the starter solenoid which turns the starter motor. Assuming sufficient voltage supply from the battery and no bad cells, the two most likely points of failure are the starter and ignition cylinder. A starter relay failure is relatively uncommon but a very cheap and easily replaced.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:You need a new battery, OP.

No, the battery either works, or doesn’t. This is in the ignition system, either starter, key, or switch.

In my experience the battery can be up and down like this. I was having a similar intermittent problem. I replaced the battery and it solved the problem. Obviously not the case for OP if they already replaced the battery though

Anonymous wrote:The chip in your key is going bad. If you have a 2nd key, use that and see if it stops happening.

+1

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:could be as simple as the battery being old.

Sounds like OP replaced the battery already.

OP said starter was replaced so it's the battery.

Read 10:23

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:could be as simple as the battery being old.

Sounds like OP replaced the battery already.

OP said starter was replaced so it's the battery.

Anonymous wrote:Take your car to Track Auto (or whatever they are called now). They have the machines to hook up to your car to run diagnostic codes to see what’s going on. Also, just because you recently replaced your battery doesn’t mean it’s not the battery. They are warrantied because they can be lemons. Also, something could be draining the battery like a phone charger.

I am 99% sure code won’t show anything.

Take your car to Track Auto (or whatever they are called now). They have the machines to hook up to your car to run diagnostic codes to see what’s going on. Also, just because you recently replaced your battery doesn’t mean it’s not the battery. They are warrantied because they can be lemons. Also, something could be draining the battery like a phone charger.

Anonymous wrote:You need a new battery, OP.

No, the battery either works, or doesn’t. This is in the ignition system, either starter, key, or switch.

You need a new battery, OP.