Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:20:49 here.
The issue here is not sleeping or not in the crate, it's the signs of dominance that this puppy is exhibiting. That is not allowed. She cannot learn that there are certain conditions in which she can be aggressive towards you. You HAVE to teach her not do act like this.
"Nonviolent civil disobedience", as I call it, is fine. My dog will let me know when he's done getting his nails dremeled, or when he's tired of getting brushed (he has a heavily shedding double coat, so the brushing has to happen regularly). Instead of acting aggressive, he will gently rise and move away, and if I try to call him or catch him, keep moving away from me, in submissive tail-down, apologetic sort of way. So I let him alone. Respecting boundaries when they're non violent is part of the trust contract. This way when I really need him to comply for something important, he lets me man-handle him - vaccines and teeth-scraping at the vet come to mind.
But the rare times he's been aggressive as a teen, I've doubled down. I cannot let him think he can rule by aggressive displays, ever. That's not how dogs can live with humans, especially vulnerable children. So when he was a teen, I had to yell, swat him on the nose (didn't hurt but it surprised him), and drag him unceremoniously to his crate multiple times. We are past that stage now. You're at the beginning of it, so buckle down: show him you won't tolerate aggression, but that you can sometimes allow non-violent dissent. It takes a lot of observation and communication.
Yes I agree it's not about the crate. But still unclear what exactly you do to not tolerate it or doubling down. What is the consequence? Thanks.
Anonymous wrote:20:49 here.
The issue here is not sleeping or not in the crate, it's the signs of dominance that this puppy is exhibiting. That is not allowed. She cannot learn that there are certain conditions in which she can be aggressive towards you. You HAVE to teach her not do act like this.
"Nonviolent civil disobedience", as I call it, is fine. My dog will let me know when he's done getting his nails dremeled, or when he's tired of getting brushed (he has a heavily shedding double coat, so the brushing has to happen regularly). Instead of acting aggressive, he will gently rise and move away, and if I try to call him or catch him, keep moving away from me, in submissive tail-down, apologetic sort of way. So I let him alone. Respecting boundaries when they're non violent is part of the trust contract. This way when I really need him to comply for something important, he lets me man-handle him - vaccines and teeth-scraping at the vet come to mind.
But the rare times he's been aggressive as a teen, I've doubled down. I cannot let him think he can rule by aggressive displays, ever. That's not how dogs can live with humans, especially vulnerable children. So when he was a teen, I had to yell, swat him on the nose (didn't hurt but it surprised him), and drag him unceremoniously to his crate multiple times. We are past that stage now. You're at the beginning of it, so buckle down: show him you won't tolerate aggression, but that you can sometimes allow non-violent dissent. It takes a lot of observation and communication.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Serious training. Now.
Ok what are your credentials? Curious if you're a trainer. And I know I want to train her more but my post is about the differing views. One is positive reinforcement and leadership. The other is the collar
My credentials are I have been fostering dogs for about five years, including litters of puppies. I am not a trainer. I take dogs with challenges to a trainer. I've worked with a few, try Blue Ridge Canine. They are in Culpepper but do meet ups in the DC metro area.
The thing about training is it isn't finished. It's ongoing. We spent Sunday every week for months meeting our trainer at a park, with others, for training. Some of the participants actually send their dogs away to live with the trainers for a while. Yes, I use but the carrot and the stick - prong collars and high value treats. Bits of hot dog are the best. I've even used an e collar but just the beep and vibrate, not the shock. Whatever it takes to keep a dog behaving in a way that you... can keep the dog.
Have the dog evaluated. It may not be the dog for you. I rescue dogs and don't want any to be abandoned but you can't have a dog in your home you can't trust.
Thanks. So you're disagreeing with the PP's advice on keeping it positive? This is our first dog. She's great! I am naturally scared of dogs and she probably can tell. I think there is some great advice from all angles. We need to work on training more. She does sit and wait before gojng out or eating and does sit down and stay etc. but we need to work on it more. We do like 5 min a day.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Is she reluctant to go into the crate or just doesn't like being picked up/jostled? Those are two different things.
It varies. More just growls and snaps here and there. Not really random but not only
For crate. Usually involves handling or picking up. Def annoyed when sleepy. Maybe mostly being picked up or paws being cleaned is another example. That one we are solving with treats.
Have you tried treating the other times? When dogs are young (and even old, really) and in training or you're working on changing behaviors you need to treat them for all your worth, and then you can decide to wean off treats in time.
My dog had a brief "teenage" period when he'd avoid the crate when he saw me getting my bag packed for work, and this is a dog who LOVED his crate all other times. I started tossing the highest-value treat (greenie from Trader Joe's) in there and he hightailed it right on in to happily dig in. Soon he did it himself -- saw me get my work bag and put shoes on, and he'd sprint for the crate. Even now that he's old and the crate has been gone for years he gets interested when I leave the house, and asks for a treat.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Is she reluctant to go into the crate or just doesn't like being picked up/jostled? Those are two different things.
It varies. More just growls and snaps here and there. Not really random but not only
For crate. Usually involves handling or picking up. Def annoyed when sleepy. Maybe mostly being picked up or paws being cleaned is another example. That one we are solving with treats.
Anonymous wrote:Is she reluctant to go into the crate or just doesn't like being picked up/jostled? Those are two different things.

Anonymous wrote:20:49 here.
The issue here is not sleeping or not in the crate, it's the signs of dominance that this puppy is exhibiting. That is not allowed. She cannot learn that there are certain conditions in which she can be aggressive towards you. You HAVE to teach her not do act like this.
"Nonviolent civil disobedience", as I call it, is fine. My dog will let me know when he's done getting his nails dremeled, or when he's tired of getting brushed (he has a heavily shedding double coat, so the brushing has to happen regularly). Instead of acting aggressive, he will gently rise and move away, and if I try to call him or catch him, keep moving away from me, in submissive tail-down, apologetic sort of way. So I let him alone. Respecting boundaries when they're non violent is part of the trust contract. This way when I really need him to comply for something important, he lets me man-handle him - vaccines and teeth-scraping at the vet come to mind.
But the rare times he's been aggressive as a teen, I've doubled down. I cannot let him think he can rule by aggressive displays, ever. That's not how dogs can live with humans, especially vulnerable children. So when he was a teen, I had to yell, swat him on the nose (didn't hurt but it surprised him), and drag him unceremoniously to his crate multiple times. We are past that stage now. You're at the beginning of it, so buckle down: show him you won't tolerate aggression, but that you can sometimes allow non-violent dissent. It takes a lot of observation and communication.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:I don't let my dogs behave like that until they're very old and I need to monitor their decline carefully. The rest of the time they have to obey, 24/7. They are not humans. They are not allowed to decline the crate or be aggressive when they wake up.
Your case is especially important, OP, because you have a dog on the cusp of teen rebellion. If you don't nip that behavior in the bud, you're going to get more and more pushback for other things, and your puppy's bite inhibition will fade, which is very dangerous. A 40lbs biting rebel is not what you want.
I wake up dogs gently. They have never been aggressive with that sort of wake-up. If they try to growl and snap, they get a very displeased, angry voice. If they don't want to go in the crate, I leash them and pull them inside. Once they're in the crate, they get a treat, and as soon as they calm down, they get a gentle, warm voice. After a while, resistance disappears. Generally, all my dogs understood pretty quickly that they don't the angry tone and the displeased human, and that doing what I ask always leads to a more pleasant life for them. You've got to make the right choice easy to pick!
Thanks-- how do you get them in the crate with the leash? Seems you would have to crawl in there lol. Good advice!
You never want to invade their "den" by going in yourself. Don't let kids or other pets get in there either, since part of the appeal of the crate is that it's their private space that they are sure no one will ever take from them. I pull them up to the crate, and either entice them in with a treat, or physically push them in until they learn to go in of their own accord.
Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Anonymous wrote:Serious training. Now.
Ok what are your credentials? Curious if you're a trainer. And I know I want to train her more but my post is about the differing views. One is positive reinforcement and leadership. The other is the collar
My credentials are I have been fostering dogs for about five years, including litters of puppies. I am not a trainer. I take dogs with challenges to a trainer. I've worked with a few, try Blue Ridge Canine. They are in Culpepper but do meet ups in the DC metro area.
The thing about training is it isn't finished. It's ongoing. We spent Sunday every week for months meeting our trainer at a park, with others, for training. Some of the participants actually send their dogs away to live with the trainers for a while. Yes, I use but the carrot and the stick - prong collars and high value treats. Bits of hot dog are the best. I've even used an e collar but just the beep and vibrate, not the shock. Whatever it takes to keep a dog behaving in a way that you... can keep the dog.
Have the dog evaluated. It may not be the dog for you. I rescue dogs and don't want any to be abandoned but you can't have a dog in your home you can't trust.
Thanks. So you're disagreeing with the PP's advice on keeping it positive? This is our first dog. She's great! I am naturally scared of dogs and she probably can tell. I think there is some great advice from all angles. We need to work on training more. She does sit and wait before gojng out or eating and does sit down and stay etc. but we need to work on it more. We do like 5 min a day.