Anonymous wrote:I think you’re misinformed. Exterior drains are definitely still used/required.

Here’s Carroll County:
https://www.carrollcountymd.gov/government/directory/public-works/permits-inspections/residential-projects/residential-code-compliance-guidelines/

Of course if you have an existing house you can just get bigger gutters and call it a day but exterior drains are the standard.

Really? Link me to 5 basement waterproofing companies in this area and I'll bet you not one of them does exterior drain tile work. Not only is it not the standard, it's pretty much obsolete for water management of an existing home.

Anonymous wrote:I think you’re misinformed. Exterior drains are definitely still used/required.

Here’s Carroll County:
https://www.carrollcountymd.gov/government/directory/public-works/permits-inspections/residential-projects/residential-code-compliance-guidelines/

Of course if you have an existing house you can just get bigger gutters and call it a day but exterior drains are the standard.

And you are still an idiot. Exterior drain tile was always required for NEW HOME CONSTRUCTION while both interior, exterior, sump pumps and battery back-up pumps are required in PG county. As usual, your comments have NOTHING to do with the discussion about an older home, that already has an exterior drain-as they all do-and how to remedy the situation of water intrusion. There is no Fing code in any county in MD, VA, or DC that requires a contractor doing water proofing to put in, or replace an exterior drain and hardly anyone does. It's nearly all interior drains tied to sump pumps, permitted where required. Permits are not even required for this type of work in MOCO or HOCO.

Diverting as much water away from your foundation as possible is always the best option. Look at gutters and grading if your basement is suddenly getting wetter than it was preciously when it rains. It's unlikely the groundwater level suddenly changed.

I think you’re misinformed. Exterior drains are definitely still used/required.

Here’s Carroll County:
https://www.carrollcountymd.gov/government/directory/public-works/permits-inspections/residential-projects/residential-code-compliance-guidelines/

Of course if you have an existing house you can just get bigger gutters and call it a day but exterior drains are the standard.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:First we had Landscapers come to help address water issues with grading and fortifying existing window wells. This was the least expensive option and helped with probably 40% of the water issues. Then we had our gutters replaced, which took care of another 40% of the issues. This was also fairly low cost. And finally, we had our roof replaced- obviously, the most expensive. Since then- we have had no water issues.

Point being- you will probably need to address the issue in several different ways.

BS you still have a leak its just not as pronounced, people like you need to be fined for not following code and waterproofing the basement walls and installing weaping system and sump

HATE YOU, you pawn the problem off to someone else and pocket the profits

LOL, you just don't understand how foundations work, do you? They all leak under the right circumstances.

This code you speak of is a figment of your imagination. They did the right thing.

This crazy guy pops up often when water management issues are discussed. He is always touting his imaginary building code on how to fix a water intrusion issue. No such code exists that says how it MUST be done when working on an existing building. He also likes to claim that in internal drain is not the way to go and you must dig all the way down to the foundation, tar the wall and put another drain down on the mud. Meanwhile, internal drains are about the only type drain contractors are putting in these days. The guy is totally off his rocker, or he's a contractor trying to defend an old, ineefective method that on one uses anymore.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:First we had Landscapers come to help address water issues with grading and fortifying existing window wells. This was the least expensive option and helped with probably 40% of the water issues. Then we had our gutters replaced, which took care of another 40% of the issues. This was also fairly low cost. And finally, we had our roof replaced- obviously, the most expensive. Since then- we have had no water issues.

Point being- you will probably need to address the issue in several different ways.

BS you still have a leak its just not as pronounced, people like you need to be fined for not following code and waterproofing the basement walls and installing weaping system and sump

HATE YOU, you pawn the problem off to someone else and pocket the profits

LOL, you just don't understand how foundations work, do you? They all leak under the right circumstances.

This code you speak of is a figment of your imagination. They did the right thing.

I’m not the excited PP, but I think it is code now to have drain tiles and a sump pump, but I think that’s for new construction and major renovations. If it’s your existing house and you want to just grade your yard and get bigger gutters, you can. But in almost all cases around here if you see a finished basement, there should be external drains and a sump pump or at least internal drains and a sump pump. If not, you’re probably dealing with wet walls behind the finish or will be as soon as whatever paint/sealer/etc wears off.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:First we had Landscapers come to help address water issues with grading and fortifying existing window wells. This was the least expensive option and helped with probably 40% of the water issues. Then we had our gutters replaced, which took care of another 40% of the issues. This was also fairly low cost. And finally, we had our roof replaced- obviously, the most expensive. Since then- we have had no water issues.

Point being- you will probably need to address the issue in several different ways.

BS you still have a leak its just not as pronounced, people like you need to be fined for not following code and waterproofing the basement walls and installing weaping system and sump

HATE YOU, you pawn the problem off to someone else and pocket the profits

LOL, you just don't understand how foundations work, do you? They all leak under the right circumstances.

This code you speak of is a figment of your imagination. They did the right thing.

Anonymous wrote:First we had Landscapers come to help address water issues with grading and fortifying existing window wells. This was the least expensive option and helped with probably 40% of the water issues. Then we had our gutters replaced, which took care of another 40% of the issues. This was also fairly low cost. And finally, we had our roof replaced- obviously, the most expensive. Since then- we have had no water issues.

Point being- you will probably need to address the issue in several different ways.

BS you still have a leak its just not as pronounced, people like you need to be fined for not following code and waterproofing the basement walls and installing weaping system and sump

HATE YOU, you pawn the problem off to someone else and pocket the profits

First we had Landscapers come to help address water issues with grading and fortifying existing window wells. This was the least expensive option and helped with probably 40% of the water issues. Then we had our gutters replaced, which took care of another 40% of the issues. This was also fairly low cost. And finally, we had our roof replaced- obviously, the most expensive. Since then- we have had no water issues.

Point being- you will probably need to address the issue in several different ways.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Ideally, divert the water before it enters your house.

you need to do both, divert and exterior waterproof/sump etc.

Can a landscaper do the exterior waterproofing and have a plumber install sump?

Anonymous wrote:Ideally, divert the water before it enters your house.

you need to do both, divert and exterior waterproof/sump etc.

To be clear, the water is SUPPOSED to go into the drain and the sump pump. That’s good! If there’s a side of the basement with no drain that has water, exterior would be best.

Ideally, divert the water before it enters your house.

I would have to see your house to give good advice but from personal experience I can give you a few tips. You won’t be able to lower the basement humidity if you have water pouring into the basement and being pumped out.

Some things you can do, make sure your gutters are clear and not overflowing. You want the water going down the downspouts and not all over the place. Next, look where the downspouts are dumping the water. If it’s right up to the house, use extenders to move the water away. You want to reduce the volume of water flowing back into your foundation. Once you’ve done those easy steps, it’s time to take a look at surface water. If your backyard flows into your house, you absolutely need a French drain. If you have standing water near the house, your basement will flood. What kind of patio do you have? Is it concrete or pavers with sand under them? Pavers with sand will allow water to flow into your foundation. You would need a patio drain under them to connect to the French drain system. “Waterproofing” your foundation with a special paint is a temporary bandaid. Don’t use a water remediation company for the French drain. Call several landscapers to come out and give you quotes. They do this kind of work and since they aren’t “waterproofing companies” they won’t charge you extra for the same work.

We an old colonial with an addition, and the addition was built into a slope but landscaper says the grading is appropriate to channel runoff away from the house.

However, we live near a lot of underground streams, and our sump pump runs a few times a day even on sunny days, so I think groundwater is an issue.

Even today, with a sunny day, we have some water seeping in through basement wall into the interior french drain.

However, for recent rains storms we've had a much bigger leak on a section of the house that does not have interior french drain.

Waterproofing companies are saying we need to excavate, seal, and add an exterior french drain to route to sump to keep our basement dry.

Is that really our only option?

Looking at threads like this, an interior french drain is much cheaper, but will not help the high humidity we have, but should last longer?

https://www.dcurbanmom.com/jforum/posts/list/738414.page

The numbers for this excavation seem to range from $9k - $30k, depending on the scope of work, using an existing window well drain vs installing a sump.

Ugh, wish we lived in a newer house that was built right to begin win.