"But permits and inspectors exist to make sure contractors don't do really unsafe things to clients who don't know enough to spot the hazard. "
I learned that this is not true, at least in DC, the hard way.
The DCRA is not there to protect the homeowner. They work for the District, not the person being ripped off by the shoddy contractor. If your contractor is caught doing something crazy that violates code, YOU are the one who has to pay the fine in order to get a Stop Work order lifted. Similarly, if the contractor obtains the wrong permit for the project, the homeowner is assumed to be the one who directed him to do so, and is fined accordingly. The DCRA system is set up in a way that assumes that as the homeowner you are in cahoots with the bad contractor in order to avoid complying with the codes. There are a few inspectors who will work with you and who recognize what a bad spot this puts you in. Be VERY courteous with them. You may need their help at some point in the process.
That said, you do want to have a construction expert watching your contractor like a hawk to make sure they are meeting the standards. Chances are you will have no idea whether the contractor is in compliance.