this is the recipe that I followed last night:
http://ohsheglows.com/2012/09/17/how-to-roast-perfect-pumpkin-seeds-easy-crunchy-addictive/
I used coconut oil, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and sea salt. DH said they were better than last year. DD said they could use a little more salt.
As for cleaning them, I don't know if we just had a lucky pumpkin this year, or if my technique was better. But it seemed that if I grabbed the goo, I could pop the seeds out and into the colander more easily than picking the seeds out individually. Rinsing them helped get any remaining blobs off, too. As to why: the stingy goo burns faster than the seeds, IME.