My friend owned an auto repair shop. The reason brake jobs are so high is insurance. If they mess that up you're likely to crash in a bad way and sue them.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Check rotor thickness. If it’s within specs and they’re not warped (manifested as a “pulsating” feeling in the pedal when moderate braking pedal force at 25-50 mph) then just do pads.

You can do the pads yourself with simple tools. A few sizes of sockets, some needle nose pliers, a large “C” clamp or brake piston compression tool, and some brake cleaner and caliper slide grease. That’s all you need. I’ve replaced brake pads in grocery store parking lots while my wife was inside shopping. It’s that fast/easy.

Klassy

You know what’s klassy? Keeping the $600-$800 that imbeciles like you give to other people to do simple repairs that I can do myself.

Jeeez. I just paid $1,737 for pads and rotors front and back.

I want to lean how to do this myself next time. Where do I start?

As an initial point, I would not machine rotors because the rotors are relatively cheap to buy if you dont get OEM. Whether to change the rotors when changing the pads really depends on how many miles your car has. I just changed my pads (car had 100K miles) and there was significant pulsing because there were small grooves in the rotors. Changing just the front rotors solved the pulsing problem, but I went ahead and changed the rear rotors too because it was easy and didnt cost much more.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Check rotor thickness. If it’s within specs and they’re not warped (manifested as a “pulsating” feeling in the pedal when moderate braking pedal force at 25-50 mph) then just do pads.

You can do the pads yourself with simple tools. A few sizes of sockets, some needle nose pliers, a large “C” clamp or brake piston compression tool, and some brake cleaner and caliper slide grease. That’s all you need. I’ve replaced brake pads in grocery store parking lots while my wife was inside shopping. It’s that fast/easy.

Klassy

You know what’s klassy? Keeping the $600-$800 that imbeciles like you give to other people to do simple repairs that I can do myself.

Nobody wants your junked up ride up on blocks in their parking lot. Who does that? Wait....YOU

Cry harder over something you don’t get to control.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Check rotor thickness. If it’s within specs and they’re not warped (manifested as a “pulsating” feeling in the pedal when moderate braking pedal force at 25-50 mph) then just do pads.

You can do the pads yourself with simple tools. A few sizes of sockets, some needle nose pliers, a large “C” clamp or brake piston compression tool, and some brake cleaner and caliper slide grease. That’s all you need. I’ve replaced brake pads in grocery store parking lots while my wife was inside shopping. It’s that fast/easy.

Klassy

You know what’s klassy? Keeping the $600-$800 that imbeciles like you give to other people to do simple repairs that I can do myself.

Nobody wants your junked up ride up on blocks in their parking lot. Who does that? Wait....YOU

Anonymous wrote:honda; most of the places i called have insisted on pads and rotors; only the dealer wanted to do machining and pads

My Honda dealer did just brakes on my odyssey. Did not pressure me to do rotors.

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Check rotor thickness. If it’s within specs and they’re not warped (manifested as a “pulsating” feeling in the pedal when moderate braking pedal force at 25-50 mph) then just do pads.

You can do the pads yourself with simple tools. A few sizes of sockets, some needle nose pliers, a large “C” clamp or brake piston compression tool, and some brake cleaner and caliper slide grease. That’s all you need. I’ve replaced brake pads in grocery store parking lots while my wife was inside shopping. It’s that fast/easy.

Klassy

You know what’s klassy? Keeping the $600-$800 that imbeciles like you give to other people to do simple repairs that I can do myself.

Anonymous wrote:Check rotor thickness. If it’s within specs and they’re not warped (manifested as a “pulsating” feeling in the pedal when moderate braking pedal force at 25-50 mph) then just do pads.

You can do the pads yourself with simple tools. A few sizes of sockets, some needle nose pliers, a large “C” clamp or brake piston compression tool, and some brake cleaner and caliper slide grease. That’s all you need. I’ve replaced brake pads in grocery store parking lots while my wife was inside shopping. It’s that fast/easy.

Klassy

Check rotor thickness. If it’s within specs and they’re not warped (manifested as a “pulsating” feeling in the pedal when moderate braking pedal force at 25-50 mph) then just do pads.

You can do the pads yourself with simple tools. A few sizes of sockets, some needle nose pliers, a large “C” clamp or brake piston compression tool, and some brake cleaner and caliper slide grease. That’s all you need. I’ve replaced brake pads in grocery store parking lots while my wife was inside shopping. It’s that fast/easy.

What year is your car? How many miles and have the rotors been replaced before?

honda; most of the places i called have insisted on pads and rotors; only the dealer wanted to do machining and pads

Many places won’t replace just the pads and will only do the pads with the rotors. My car is German though.

What kind of car? German cars tend to have softer rotors (gives better brake feel) so they can't be turned and are more likely to need replacemnet.

Rotors can last forever. I would just replace pads. $500 is a lot though. It is a one hour job

Hello,

I was just my brakes are 2/32 for rear and front brakes; ive called for estimates from $500 just for brakes pads; $900 for machining and brake pads to $1200 for brake pads and rotors. I am tempted to just replace the brake pads for $500 but have seen that i really should change the rotors and pads. the price difference is very different. My brakes dont squeak and think may have gotten lucky that i dont even need machining since the brake pads have not been totally gone. also not sure if machining is really a "repair" and just something that will put off the the inevitable (i.e. new rotors). also not clear if rotors can last forever if i change the brake pads before they reach critical state (i.e. below 2/32). Thanks.