Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:At 200k I’d also be doing ignition coil packs in addition to plugs and wires. Possibly alternator (check stators/brushes for carbon, check bearings), definitely serpentine belt and belt tensioner/idler pulley. Fuel injector cleaning. Definitely replace the PCV and/or EGR valve(s). MAP/MAFS cleaning for certain. Anything in the chassis with a grease zerk should get a shot of grease.

Check top and bottom of the radiator for leaks at the crimp seal. Check CV boots, check ball joints, check tie rod ends, huh unit bearings. Check a/c clutch, too.


If it’s not using oil excessively, the engine internals are probably good for another 100k. If there’s no excessive lifter/cam noise that’s a good sign.

Transmission- if it’s NEVER been serviced - DON’T. New fluid will likely just dissolve all the accumulated sludge film coating everything right now, and that will then cause problems.

What do you recommend for that? Seaform?

SeaFoam is more of a regular on-going treatment. There are solvent products designed for deep cleaning where you remove the injectors and soak them for a period, then reinstall them.

SeaFoam is great stuff (BG, too) but it’s made for ongoing periodic treatments by adding it to your fuel. If used at regular intervals it’s fantastic. But it won’t make up for years and hundred-thousand plus miles of not using it at all. It can only do so much.

Anonymous wrote:At 200k I’d also be doing ignition coil packs in addition to plugs and wires. Possibly alternator (check stators/brushes for carbon, check bearings), definitely serpentine belt and belt tensioner/idler pulley. Fuel injector cleaning. Definitely replace the PCV and/or EGR valve(s). MAP/MAFS cleaning for certain. Anything in the chassis with a grease zerk should get a shot of grease.

Check top and bottom of the radiator for leaks at the crimp seal. Check CV boots, check ball joints, check tie rod ends, huh unit bearings. Check a/c clutch, too.


If it’s not using oil excessively, the engine internals are probably good for another 100k. If there’s no excessive lifter/cam noise that’s a good sign.

Transmission- if it’s NEVER been serviced - DON’T. New fluid will likely just dissolve all the accumulated sludge film coating everything right now, and that will then cause problems.

What do you recommend for that? Seaform?

I hope you were specific with him that you were referring to miles rather than price!

At 200k I’d also be doing ignition coil packs in addition to plugs and wires. Possibly alternator (check stators/brushes for carbon, check bearings), definitely serpentine belt and belt tensioner/idler pulley. Fuel injector cleaning. Definitely replace the PCV and/or EGR valve(s). MAP/MAFS cleaning for certain. Anything in the chassis with a grease zerk should get a shot of grease.

Check top and bottom of the radiator for leaks at the crimp seal. Check CV boots, check ball joints, check tie rod ends, huh unit bearings. Check a/c clutch, too.


If it’s not using oil excessively, the engine internals are probably good for another 100k. If there’s no excessive lifter/cam noise that’s a good sign.

Transmission- if it’s NEVER been serviced - DON’T. New fluid will likely just dissolve all the accumulated sludge film coating everything right now, and that will then cause problems.

if you tell your mechanic guy i need 200k service, what do you think it's included? timing belt, water pump, plugs/wires? else?? I just realized i didn't tell him anything other than 200k service and he just nod his head. he doesn't say much but i completely trust him