People panic in bad years, you don't really account for human psychology. Good for you that you managed to put your money on snooze and not look and re-allocate mode for decades. |
| Let's assume you save 30K a year in your 401k so subtract that since you wont be doing that, then another 10K for 529s and other savings, now subtract 10K for payroll taxes. Thats 200K so you'd need 5 million instead. |
This is dangerous thinking. If you retired in 1965 and lost 70% of your investments through 1982, AND were having to have additional losses to fund your yearly expenses, you will probably never recovered in our lifetime. We are discussing RETIREMENT on this thread, not being 30 and living through massive corrections. Two very different scenarios. |
This is my biggest concern. Sequence of Return Risk. Retiring into a downturn, correction, crash. It is well documented and a must-understand for people who invest. Sequence of returns risk is the risk of negative market returns occurring late in your working years and/or early in retirement. At this stage of your investment life, market downturns can have a much more significant impact on your portfolio and your lifetime income strategy. |
You just need a realistic budget for retirement. We put together a basic budget of "required" versus "wants". And we plan for the combination total. But you can choose to retire earlier if you compromise on the wants. |
Yes, it's why you have to diversify and cannot just snooze and think you will get truly "passive" income. Likely you want a combo of long term funds, some rental income, and some short term trading (work to do) to hedge against risks. You are basically going to have to "work" to keep your money you already earned, saved and often paid taxes on. It's the sh** system we live in.. The work never ends. |
| Sequence if returns risk is why I will probably never feel comfortable retiring. I have enough to retire but not enough to retire into a prolonged down market.. |
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You don’t need the same income in retirement.
For example, you won’t have to contribute to retirement savings any longer. Ideally, you won’t have mortgage payments at that point. You will also have social security income. Something is off with your calculations. Don’t you have an advisor? |
My advisor has me keep two years worth of liquid funds outside of the market, so I would not have to tap in if there was a downturn. They have not historically lasted that long. |
Ridiculous (for one person), |
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| General investment logic says investments should double every 7.5 years. In 15 years you'll have the 6.5m. |
There are a couple of issues with that advice. The future is unknown. If you think the future will be like the past, then a downturn can easily last 10 yrs. And your performance is almost guaranteed to take a hit by having money tied up in bonds or cash. I'm not saying that you shouldn't invest in bonds (you probably should), but their is a downside to pretty much every strategy. Reducing your withdrawal rate to 3% or doing one of the variable strategies is what I'll probably end up doing. |
Obviously there is a downside to each strategy. However, if you are approaching retirement, it is best to have a portion of your investments in cash/bonds/easily accessible and not likely to take a hit investments. yes, you will miss out on gains if the market is positive. Conversely, if the market goes down 10%+, those investments will remain steady/small gains. Given that MM/CDs/treasuries are likely to continue returning 3%+ for the foreseeable future, it would be silly currently not to hedge your bets and put the next 2 years (or more) into that category if that is your income (or will soon be). just like if your kid is 16 and approaching college, you should not be 100% in stock funds. Unless you can deal with loosing 30-40% of your 529 before they enter college. That's why you move a portion to secure investments a few years before college and hedge your bets with 25-50% in the market still. |
Tell that to the retiree who retired in 1965. |