understanding my tomato plant

[Anonymous]

Once tomatoes reach a certain point(starting to show color) they will crack if you water them. The plants pushes water to the fruit and cracks the skin, not b/c of heat and humidity. It has not been too hot here. The plant sets fruit best b/t upper 70's through about 90, but it will still set fruit at high temps, plus it is not 90 all day. What is most likely happening is the plant is happy and growing with all the cool temp and water. This week will give them a little stress and reminder them to get to work and product something. Also, some plants are determinate(all tomatoes ripen with a few days) and other are indeterminate(a few tomatoes each day with more coming). If you have the determinate type, they are slower at setting fruit.

[Anonymous]

I grow Heirloom tomatoes each year and they are sometimes picky.

First, the fruit will not set when it is scorching hot, like right now.

Second, your tomatoes "exploded" because of too much water. Our normal June Rainfall is 3.75 inches, we had almost 10 in June. That is horrible for tomatoes. Believe it or not, tomatoes like a little stress from a lack of water from time to time. Tomatoes like a steady trickle of water, but a down pour causes them to crack and split, allowing rot and bugs.

Also, tomatoes are very heavy nitrogen feeders and need a ton of calcium. Do you put ground up egg shells in your tomato beds? If not, you need to. What have you done to make sure you have pleanty of nitrogen?

Lastly, I do not believe it is pollen that is the issue. I have grown tomatoes indoors. I have no idea how my plants have set fruit, but they have. I also buy local tomatoes from someone who grows them year round indoors in the Shenandoah valley.

All in all, the very wet conditions and the recent heat is no bueno for tomatoes. Mine are in the ground and this is the first year I have not watered them even once. Normally I have to run soaker hoses!!!

[Anonymous]

OP again. Great input -- thank you!

As for the overwatering issue -- If the green ones on the vine look big enough, should I pluck them off and let them ripen off the vine? (I've had tomatoes split in the past.)

I'm from Jersey where "Jersey tomatoes" reign supreme. I didn't realize it, but maybe the Jersey climate is just better suited to growing big tomatoes than the Maryland climate is. Thoughts? (Or is that just an excuse?)

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:OP again. Great input -- thank you!

As for the overwatering issue -- If the green ones on the vine look big enough, should I pluck them off and let them ripen off the vine? (I've had tomatoes split in the past.)

I'm from Jersey where "Jersey tomatoes" reign supreme. I didn't realize it, but maybe the Jersey climate is just better suited to growing big tomatoes than the Maryland climate is. Thoughts? (Or is that just an excuse?)

I think that's just an excuse! Sorry.

I've never grown the big giant tomatoes, for the same reason that I've never grown the big giant pumpkins, but I've grown plenty of non-cherry tomatoes in Maryland, and they've done fine -- generally, that is. Some years are good, some years are outstanding, and some years are a bust.

I wouldn't pick them and let them ripen off the vine. You might as well eat grocery-store tomatoes.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:OP here again. How are everyone else's tomato plants doing? About how many green ones do you have growing on each plant? (Have you had any red ones come in?) If yours are doing particularly well, please post advice that I can follow next year. Thanks!

(I'm asking specifically about big tomatoes -- not cherry tomatoes.)

LOL! Definitely an excuse, since tomatoes are native to Mexico and grow best in arid regions.

What you are describing is nostalgia

[Anonymous]

I have the best luck in this area growing Juliet tomatoes, which are bigger than grape tomatoes, but a bit smaller than plum tomatoes. They produce nonstop until hard frost hits. This year I tried a German Stripe plant, but it's got no tomatoes. Meanwhile the Juliets are producing pretty well. They tend to split less than other types, which matters a lot in our climate.

[Anonymous]

I just read an article about this last week. Novice tomato planters should stick to cherry or the other small tomatoes because they are much easier to grow, and you can pick them sooner. I've done cherry tomatoes in pots before (with wire trellis) and they did well. This year I'm trying for Big Boy. Lots of green ones, two big reds, but one of the reds had been attacked by a slug. So, we wait and see.

[Anonymous]

understanding my tomato plant

Have you given your tomato plant space and support, so she feels she can express herself? She may feel threatened, uptight, or not even know why she feels she needs to hold back.

Try making some tea and just sitting quietly with her, thinking warm supportive thoughts. It may take her awhile to open up to you.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:I just read an article about this last week. Novice tomato planters should stick to cherry or the other small tomatoes because they are much easier to grow, and you can pick them sooner. I've done cherry tomatoes in pots before (with wire trellis) and they did well. This year I'm trying for Big Boy. Lots of green ones, two big reds, but one of the reds had been attacked by a slug. So, we wait and see.

Cherries are so annoying. Such prolific producers and not many options.

I've never had a hard time growing my fussy heirlooms, which is why I like to do about 10 plants, in case of casualties. The key is full sun, nitrogen rich soil, and plentiful calcium. For the record, i have never had luck with pots and my large tomatoes...I've gotten 3lb Mortgage Lifters and German Giants when planted in the ground. i also always train my plants up up up, and heavily prune at the beginning of the season and keep on top of suckers.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I just read an article about this last week. Novice tomato planters should stick to cherry or the other small tomatoes because they are much easier to grow, and you can pick them sooner. I've done cherry tomatoes in pots before (with wire trellis) and they did well. This year I'm trying for Big Boy. Lots of green ones, two big reds, but one of the reds had been attacked by a slug. So, we wait and see.

Cherries are so annoying. Such prolific producers and not many options.

I've never had a hard time growing my fussy heirlooms, which is why I like to do about 10 plants, in case of casualties. The key is full sun, nitrogen rich soil, and plentiful calcium. For the record, i have never had luck with pots and my large tomatoes...I've gotten 3lb Mortgage Lifters and German Giants when planted in the ground. i also always train my plants up up up, and heavily prune at the beginning of the season and keep on top of suckers.

Any tips on pruning?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:
I've never had a hard time growing my fussy heirlooms, which is why I like to do about 10 plants, in case of casualties. The key is full sun, nitrogen rich soil, and plentiful calcium. For the record, i have never had luck with pots and my large tomatoes...I've gotten 3lb Mortgage Lifters and German Giants when planted in the ground. i also always train my plants up up up, and heavily prune at the beginning of the season and keep on top of suckers.

I second the no-pots. If it's possible to plant them in the ground, then plant them in the ground. But I don't prune at all.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:OP here again. How are everyone else's tomato plants doing? About how many green ones do you have growing on each plant? (Have you had any red ones come in?) If yours are doing particularly well, please post advice that I can follow next year. Thanks!

(I'm asking specifically about big tomatoes -- not cherry tomatoes.)

My tomatoes have grown very large this year from all the rain. But I remove the tomatoes before they are ripe, because it has been so damp, they can get mushy. They finish ripening in my protected kitchen! Also, if your tomatoes are not producing, give them some "fruit and flower" fertilizer (from Lowes, HD etc) Tomatoes need a lot of sun, and many shady yards around here don't give them enough. You might want to look at the estimated fruiting time. We have "Better Boys" they have the shortest fruiting time (75 days = now) compared to an Heirloom tomatoes which will be 120 days = September.