Help me design a skin care routine w/ stuff i have on hand

Anonymous
I had my first professional facial at age 48 and the lady told me to "skin cycle" so I looked it up online and got overwhelmed.

I would like for some help designing a program with what I have and I'm happy to buy additions and I know I need a really good day and night moisturizer for dry skin, for example. And a good eye cream.

I have:
facial oil
Selfless by hyram Mandelic acid but have no idea what to do with it.
The ordinary "buffet" and no idea what to do with it.
Roc Retinol correction serum. I use this on my forehead and upper lip. the only places I have lines right now.
Olay pro advanced retinol complex night moisturizer
olay regernist aha peptide 24 renewing moisturizer (both of these don't seem to have enough moisture for me. I use them interchangeably at night)
My mom sent me tretinoin .1% I read a bit on here about it but am kind of intimidated. The facial was 5 days ago and the lady said that I should exfoliate tonight.

Which product to use? Does tretinoin count as an exfoliator? If no, what's it classified as? Are any of those things above exfoliators? Can I exfoliate and use tretinoin on the same night?
thanks!
Anonymous
Following. I have many of the same products. I was doing a lot of research in the fall, but fell off the wagon a bit. I was getting frustrated because a lot of the products were flaking off my face. I need to try tretonin. I’m mid fifties and late to the party.
Anonymous
I would pare down. The tretinoin is the true workhorse for chemical exfoliation, but .1% is strong. If you've never used it, I would get your own prescription and start with .02%

I would suggest:

- a mild cleanser
- basic daytime moisturizer (e.g., Cetaphil)
- daytime SPF
- a nice, thick nighttime moisturizer w/o any actives (e.g., Laroche posay Lipikar Ap+m Triple Repair for face/body); you can also use this as an eye cream, which is what my Derm recommends and I love it
- use the tretinoin at night (start slow and sandwich); you can even apply sparingly around crows feet
- maybe use Vitamin C/feurilic acid every other day, and add something like The Ordinary's squalene to your daytime moisturizer if the tret is causing you to be too dry
Anonymous
Anonymous wrote:Following. I have many of the same products. I was doing a lot of research in the fall, but fell off the wagon a bit. I was getting frustrated because a lot of the products were flaking off my face. I need to try tretonin. I’m mid fifties and late to the party.


OP here. I think I have too many retinols and not enough other stuff.
Anonymous
16:55 again. Sorry, I realize now that you want to use what you have!
Anonymous
It's never too late to start a skin care routine! You won't have the same results as someone who's been doing it for 30 years but your skin will look better! The key is CONSISTENCY over intensity. Meaning, it's better to be consistent with lower concentrate (cheaper) products than inconsistent with higher concentrate products.

First of all, I wouldn't necessarily put all my confidence in the person who did your facial. Sometimes, they push products or give you poor advice. You should educate yourself. There are a LOT of dermatologists and cosmetic chemists on TikTok and Instagram who post great content. I especially like those who are over 40. They really get it.

This site, https://incidecoder.com/products/the-ordinary-buffet, is an excellent resource to identify what's in a product and its purpose. You can do it by brand name or copy/paste the ingredient list from a product page into it. I use it ALL the time!

Here's what you listed are for:

Face oil - You didn't provide enough information. What are the ingredients? Typically, face oil is a type of serum and it goes on after all your other products but before sunscreen and makeup. You may/may not need it or there may be something better to address whatever problem you bought it for.

Selfless by Hyram Mandelic Acid - this is an exfoliator. How often you exfoliate depends on your skin. The older you get, the more you likely need to exfoliate more frequently. But, depending on your skin sensitive/resiliency and other products you use, you may do it more/less frequently. With my rosacea and the trentinoin I use, I only use a mild exfoliator once a month in the summer and every six weeks or so in winter.

The Ordinary "Buffet" - this is a multi-peptide and hyaluronic acid serum. There's lot of good stuff in it. You can read more about peptides here: https://www.healthline.com/health/peptides-for-skin.

Roc Retinol Correction Serum - this is a good product! You can apply it morning/night. Don't limit it to your forehead and upper lip. You should be using it all over your face, neck and décolletage. The key to getting good results with any of this products is to use them BEFORE fine lines/dark spots appear. They just don't help what you already have, they help prevent it from happening in the first place. Don't use it on the nights you use Tretinoin.

Olay Pro Advanced Retinol Complex Night Moisturizer - I couldn't find this one. Don't use it on the nights you use Tretinoin.

Olay Regenerist AHA Peptide - It's also a good product but between not better than The Ordinary Buffet. You don't need both.

Tretinoin - Retinols and Tretinoins are both Vitamin A derivatives. Tretinoins are strong and usually only available by prescription. Tretinoin can be VERY drying until you build up a tolerance to it and, even then, you should only use it at night - as opposed to products with retinol like Roc which you can use twice daily. I would not apply a retinol product on the nights you use Tretinoin. It has exfoliating properties but is NOT an exfoliant. Here's more info about it. https://www.healthline.com/health/skin/tretinoin

To be continued in another post...
Anonymous
18:23 here. Before I get to my suggest skin care routine, I want to make sure you are using SUNSCREEN. Using sunscreen is THE best single thing you can do. Personally, I don’t like mineral sunscreens because they always feel so heavy and greasy on my face. Korean/Japanese sunscreens are usually my go-to but I also really like Krave’s Beet the Sun which is a plant based sunscreen. I’m very fair, blue eyed and reddish/light brown hair. I normally burn within 10 minutes of sun exposure. I have got to have a good sunscreen. https://kravebeauty.com/products/beet-the-sun-spf-40-sunscreen

Gentle Cleanser – You can spend a lot of money but you don’t have to. Get a Cerave cleanser that’s geared for your particular skin concerns. I use the hydrating cleanser. https://www.cerave.com/skincare/cleansers/facial-cleansers

Moisturizer – it sounds like you need a more hydrating moisturizer. Kiehls Ultra Facial Cream (without sunscreen) is one of my all time favorites. It’s not cheap but it’s not the most expensive either. I can wear it morning or night. https://www.kiehls.com/skincare/face-moisturizers/ultra-facial-cream-with-squalane---refillable/622.html?dwvar_622_size=4.2%20fl.%20oz.%20Jar

Another good one is Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost Water Gel. It’s less expensive but also good. I don’t care to wear it under makeup. My kids who took Accutane also swear by Kiehls and Hydro Boost. https://www.neutrogena.com/products/skincare/neutrogena-hydro-boost-water-gel-with-hyaluronic-acid/6811047.html

Triple Paste Diaper Rash Cream – yeah, you read that right. You could use Vaseline but I prefer this because it’s got Zinc Oxide. Yes, I know Zinc Oxide is one of those physical sunscreens I don’t like but it’s also an anti-oxidant and has anti-bacterial properties in addition to the petroleum jelly that’s in it which makes it an incredibly effective AND cheap barrier product for slugging. To slug, you put on all your other products and then before you go to bed, layer this on. It will seal in those other products and really help moisturize your skin. I usually only have to use it in winter.
https://www.amazon.com/Triple-Paste-Medicated-Ointment-8-Ounce/dp/B000LTJRQ8/ref=asc_df_B000LTJRQ8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507477904497&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16270092127870538131&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008189&hvtargid=pla-426027074075&psc=1&mcid=d2f8250784a931cc83b979ef10d88b7d&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiMmwBhDmARIsABeQ7xR9abDJZAhRWxE3wiSUWdokbOBplIvVw3LhihdsqNAv3Gh6IeNQ71IaAta-EALw_wcB

Eye cream – Remember, products are should help prevent/delay/mitigate signs of aging. Look at an older woman in your family that looks like you. That will likely help point you in the right direction when it comes to eye products.

Vitamin C – good for brightening. I learned from the cosmetic chemists that Vitamin C isn’t a stable ingredient, it needs binders, kept away from air and light. It can be pretty pricey but The Ordinary has a good one and you’re unlikely to get something as good for the price.
https://theordinary.com/en-us/ascorbyl-tetraisopalmitate-solution-20-in-vitamin-f-vitamin-c-100406.html

Routine:
AM
Cleanse your face (or you can use BioDerma HydraBio Micellar water no need to rinse https://www.bioderma.us/all-products/hydrabio/h2o-micellar-water do NOT use Garnier. It’s awful. I only use it to clean my makeup brushes)

If you use any prescription medications (like I do for rosacea), apply them immediately after cleansing

Apply serums – Vitamin C if you use it, then The Ordinary Buffet (or Olay Regenerist AHA Peptide – you don’t need both), then Roc Retinol Correction Serum. Wait a little bit between application to allow the products to sink in. You should apply them all over your face, neck and décolletage. I even apply them to the tops of my hands. If an area gets too dry or is too sensitive, you can discontinue applying or reduce the frequency.

If you use a non-physical sunscreen, apply it now. If not, apply your moisturizer. If you use a physical sunscreen (usually containing zinc oxide), apply it after moisturizer.

PM
Most evenings: You’re going to do Cleanse, Apply Medications, Serums and Moisturizer just like you did in the AM.

Tretinoin evenings: You’re going to Cleanse and Apply Medication. I then apply Tretinoin and then Moisturizer (some people may use serums on those nights, I don’t. YMMV). Do NOT use the Tretinoin nightly until you have built up a tolerance to it. I only use it 2-3 times a week. Again, YMMV. You might only apply it around your eyes and lips every other time or every two times you use it on the rest of your face. Listen to your skin. If direct skin contact is too much, ‘sandwich’ it. Apply moisturizer, Tretinoin, moisturizer.

Slugging – you can ‘slug’ with the Triple Paste Diaper Cream any time you need to and on nights you use Tretinoin. Do NOT apply the butt paste before Tretinoin, only after.
Anonymous
Np here

PP above, thank you for such detailed posts! I am screenshotting these to keep for reference

One question for you - you suggest to apply sunscreen before you moisturize in the morning if not using a zinc sunscreen, did I understand that right? I use supergoop unseen sunscreen (not mineral) and their website suggests using it after you moisturize, before applying makeup. Why do you think they advise that? thanks!
Anonymous
Op here. Thank you! I feel so demystified. Going shopping after lunch and before eclipsing.
Anonymous
Anonymous wrote:I would pare down. The tretinoin is the true workhorse for chemical exfoliation, but .1% is strong. If you've never used it, I would get your own prescription and start with .02%

I would suggest:

- a mild cleanser
- basic daytime moisturizer (e.g., Cetaphil)
- daytime SPF
- a nice, thick nighttime moisturizer w/o any actives (e.g., Laroche posay Lipikar Ap+m Triple Repair for face/body); you can also use this as an eye cream, which is what my Derm recommends and I love it
- use the tretinoin at night (start slow and sandwich); you can even apply sparingly around crows feet
- maybe use Vitamin C/feurilic acid every other day, and add something like The Ordinary's squalene to your daytime moisturizer if the tret is causing you to be too dry


DP -- all of the above is great advice. This is all you need unless you have other prescription meds rx'd by a Derm.
Anonymous
Sunscreen AFTER moisturizing, it is the last protective layer of your skincare routine. Best of luck!
Anonymous
Anonymous wrote:Np here

PP above, thank you for such detailed posts! I am screenshotting these to keep for reference

One question for you - you suggest to apply sunscreen before you moisturize in the morning if not using a zinc sunscreen, did I understand that right? I use supergoop unseen sunscreen (not mineral) and their website suggests using it after you moisturize, before applying makeup. Why do you think they advise that? thanks!


18:23 here. You should definitely follow the direction the sunscreen manufacturer provided. There haven't been many studies on whether it's better to apply non-physical sunscreens before/after moisturizer. It appears, though, that as long as your sunscreen is at least SPF30, it doesn't really matter whether it's before/after moisturizer. They should all, though, go on before makeup. You can't rely on the SPF in liquid make up because unless you're glopping it on (which would look horrible), you wouldn't use enough to be effective.

With the Korean/Japanese sunscreens I use, not only is the sun protection better and longer lasting, there are a lot of great skin ingredients that I'm less likely to benefit from if applied after moisturizer. In fact, in the summer I usually don't have to apply moisturizer. Since many sunscreens aren't photostable (which is why stablizing agents are added), applying sunscreen before moisturizer allows it to last a bit longer. You may hear some say that applying moisture on top of sunscreen may make the sunscreen less effective but, according to the cosmetic chemists, that's highly unlikely. The products are formulated not to do that. Otherwise, they'd also be impacted by the ingredients in makeup.

But! As always, you'll be better served by understanding the ingredients in a product, knowing your skin and figuring out what works best for you.

What I'm using right now.
Tocobo Bio Watery Sun Cream SPF50+/PA++++
https://incidecoder.com/products/tocobo-bio-watery-sun-cream-spf50-pa
SKIN 1004 - Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum
https://incidecoder.com/products/skin1004-madagascar-centella-hyalu-cica-water-fit-sun-serum-5
Anonymous
NP. This is all very helpful. I’m going to try a Korean or Japanese sunblock.

I often put on SPF on my face before taking a walk at work, working outside, etc. It eventually flakes off and I have white residue on my face, which is a real nuisance at work. Any advice on how to avoid this? Thanks!
Anonymous
Anonymous wrote:NP. This is all very helpful. I’m going to try a Korean or Japanese sunblock.

I often put on SPF on my face before taking a walk at work, working outside, etc. It eventually flakes off and I have white residue on my face, which is a real nuisance at work. Any advice on how to avoid this? Thanks!


I use a clear sunscreen - the TJ's supergroup knock-off -- and reapply often, but don't have this issue.

Is your sunscreen clear? Mineral? White? Are you applying over makeup or powder?
Anonymous
OP back with purchases.
I use trader joe's silky SPF 40 sunscreen under makeup but NEVER used moisturizer before. I started doing that today. I also purchased Kiehl's better screen UV serum at SPF 50. I am outside a lot.

I needed a better moisturizer so purchased Kiehl's ultra facial cream. The 24 hour one with squalene and something else. I don't always wear makeup on the weekend so also don't reapply moisturizer so I like that this one is 24 hours. I will also effort to reapply.

I was a little lost on the vitamin c thing so I ended up with Sephora C&E super glow serum. It was 30% off so only 14$.

Finally, I had points. So I get biossance squalane marine algae eye cream and squalane repair cream for free.

I'll have gooping it up tonight!

I have to have a think about the diaper rash cream.
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