My dog hates the neighbors dog

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:I have two standards a male and female. The male has certain dogs he vehemently dislikes, the female barked at all dogs, but they both settled down around 3 - poodles have a long teen age phase. I also had to always have a pocket of treats of various values and put them in a sit before they lock on to the offending dog and give them a treat if they stay calm. It eventually worked. They are smart enough to control their impulses with training but some don't care to do so if the treat isn't high value enough. We use biscuit type for garden variety dogs walking by and the pill pockets for dogs they really don't like. I also avoid being on the same side of the street as other dogs if I can help it since keeping two under control is harder than when i just had one

OP here. high value treats is a great idea. My dog is very food-motivated. I already take treats with me, because we do small training exercises on our walks, but I need to get something higher value for this particular situation. Because in that moment with the neighbor dog, my dod did not GAF about anything, he was completely fixated on that other dog. Thanks for that suggestion.

[Anonymous]

OP again, I think I was in a state of shock and a little traumatized (Im exaggerating) and am just now remembering more specifics. I remember in the midst of trying to get my dog in the house I looked over and the nieghbor had his dog in a sit. And they were both just looking. I remember thinking, fool keep walking, why did you stop!!!!

I'm laughing to myself about that this morning, because why?? ayyeye

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:OP again, I think I was in a state of shock and a little traumatized (Im exaggerating) and am just now remembering more specifics. I remember in the midst of trying to get my dog in the house I looked over and the nieghbor had his dog in a sit. And they were both just looking. I remember thinking, fool keep walking, why did you stop!!!!

I'm laughing to myself about that this morning, because why?? ayyeye

sometimes a dog owner will have a dog sit to keep it under control during a situation like what you are describing, when another dog is reacting so much. It does not strike me as that odd a thing

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:OP again, I think I was in a state of shock and a little traumatized (Im exaggerating) and am just now remembering more specifics. I remember in the midst of trying to get my dog in the house I looked over and the nieghbor had his dog in a sit. And they were both just looking. I remember thinking, fool keep walking, why did you stop!!!!

I'm laughing to myself about that this morning, because why?? ayyeye

sometimes a dog owner will have a dog sit to keep it under control during a situation like what you are describing, when another dog is reacting so much. It does not strike me as that odd a thing

Very true. The thing is, the neighbor's dog never barks or reacts to my dog at all. Ever. My dog is the only one losing his mind in this situation.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Territorial aggression is not uncommon for poodles. You did fine by sending him to his place to calm down. Neuter will likely not affect this behavior. If it were my dog, I'd keep him away from the window for a while.

He barks a lot. If he sees the neighbors car pull up and they get out and walk to their house, he barks, if he sees someone walk down the street, he barks. From the living room window he can see the street behind our house, if he sees people walking down that street he barks. If he’s in the backyard and he hears voices (it’s a 6ft fence so he can’t see over it) he barks. If he hears another dog in the distance, he barks. If he hears someone walk by, he barks. But it’s only that one dog that I’ve seen such an extreme reaction to. Where he’s so worked up I can barely handle him.

The two houses behind us both have dogs. Our backyards are separated by an alley, so it’s close. If he sees them in their backyard he sits at the window and cries, because he wants to go play with them. He knows those dogs. Maybe that’s the difference?

I’m going to google territorial aggression to learn more about it.

To the person that asked, I have no idea if the other dog is neutered.

If he has his balls than he is not neutered lol

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I have two standards a male and female. The male has certain dogs he vehemently dislikes, the female barked at all dogs, but they both settled down around 3 - poodles have a long teen age phase. I also had to always have a pocket of treats of various values and put them in a sit before they lock on to the offending dog and give them a treat if they stay calm. It eventually worked. They are smart enough to control their impulses with training but some don't care to do so if the treat isn't high value enough. We use biscuit type for garden variety dogs walking by and the pill pockets for dogs they really don't like. I also avoid being on the same side of the street as other dogs if I can help it since keeping two under control is harder than when i just had one

OP here. high value treats is a great idea. My dog is very food-motivated. I already take treats with me, because we do small training exercises on our walks, but I need to get something higher value for this particular situation. Because in that moment with the neighbor dog, my dod did not GAF about anything, he was completely fixated on that other dog. Thanks for that suggestion.

You have to pull it out before he loses his mind. Now you know about the dog so I would do my best to avoid. Perhaps you can text your neighbor to find out when they go out so you can not go out at the same time.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Territorial aggression is not uncommon for poodles. You did fine by sending him to his place to calm down. Neuter will likely not affect this behavior. If it were my dog, I'd keep him away from the window for a while.

He barks a lot. If he sees the neighbors car pull up and they get out and walk to their house, he barks, if he sees someone walk down the street, he barks. From the living room window he can see the street behind our house, if he sees people walking down that street he barks. If he’s in the backyard and he hears voices (it’s a 6ft fence so he can’t see over it) he barks. If he hears another dog in the distance, he barks. If he hears someone walk by, he barks. But it’s only that one dog that I’ve seen such an extreme reaction to. Where he’s so worked up I can barely handle him.

The two houses behind us both have dogs. Our backyards are separated by an alley, so it’s close. If he sees them in their backyard he sits at the window and cries, because he wants to go play with them. He knows those dogs. Maybe that’s the difference?

I’m going to google territorial aggression to learn more about it.

To the person that asked, I have no idea if the other dog is neutered.

If he has his balls than he is not neutered lol

. Yes, I know that’s how you tell. 🙄

[Anonymous]

I think you need to be careful with the timing of treats - you don't want to end up rewarding your dog for bad behaviors.

We had a large poodle who lost his shit all the time with certain dogs (loved others). If on a walk and uncertain of what he'd do, I'd distract him, keep him on the side of me furthest from the other dog, I'd also get him to sit and then praise him for being so good. All the while with my back to the other dog, blocking my dog's sight of it. This works well and is not traumatic.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Territorial aggression is not uncommon for poodles. You did fine by sending him to his place to calm down. Neuter will likely not affect this behavior. If it were my dog, I'd keep him away from the window for a while.

He barks a lot. If he sees the neighbors car pull up and they get out and walk to their house, he barks, if he sees someone walk down the street, he barks. From the living room window he can see the street behind our house, if he sees people walking down that street he barks. If he’s in the backyard and he hears voices (it’s a 6ft fence so he can’t see over it) he barks. If he hears another dog in the distance, he barks. If he hears someone walk by, he barks. But it’s only that one dog that I’ve seen such an extreme reaction to. Where he’s so worked up I can barely handle him.

The two houses behind us both have dogs. Our backyards are separated by an alley, so it’s close. If he sees them in their backyard he sits at the window and cries, because he wants to go play with them. He knows those dogs. Maybe that’s the difference?

I’m going to google territorial aggression to learn more about it.

To the person that asked, I have no idea if the other dog is neutered.

If he has his balls than he is not neutered lol

. Yes, I know that’s how you tell. 🙄

So it should be easy to know!

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:I think you need to be careful with the timing of treats - you don't want to end up rewarding your dog for bad behaviors.

We had a large poodle who lost his shit all the time with certain dogs (loved others). If on a walk and uncertain of what he'd do, I'd distract him, keep him on the side of me furthest from the other dog, I'd also get him to sit and then praise him for being so good. All the while with my back to the other dog, blocking my dog's sight of it. This works well and is not traumatic.

You aren't rewarding bad behavior..you are changing how he feels about his trigger from negative to positive. Ooh I get really good treats when I see this dog! But he goes away the treats go away. Maybe he isn't so bad after all!

It's called counter conditioning. Perhaps with a trainer ypu can work with your neighbor/dog so he can learn how to ignore!

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I think you need to be careful with the timing of treats - you don't want to end up rewarding your dog for bad behaviors.

We had a large poodle who lost his shit all the time with certain dogs (loved others). If on a walk and uncertain of what he'd do, I'd distract him, keep him on the side of me furthest from the other dog, I'd also get him to sit and then praise him for being so good. All the while with my back to the other dog, blocking my dog's sight of it. This works well and is not traumatic.

You aren't rewarding bad behavior..you are changing how he feels about his trigger from negative to positive. Ooh I get really good treats when I see this dog! But he goes away the treats go away. Maybe he isn't so bad after all!

It's called counter conditioning. Perhaps with a trainer ypu can work with your neighbor/dog so he can learn how to ignore!

I think if that's what you're calling it, it needs to be done very carefully with a very good trainer, otherwise you are literally telling your dog "oh you're losing your shit, that's great, have a treat"

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I think you need to be careful with the timing of treats - you don't want to end up rewarding your dog for bad behaviors.

We had a large poodle who lost his shit all the time with certain dogs (loved others). If on a walk and uncertain of what he'd do, I'd distract him, keep him on the side of me furthest from the other dog, I'd also get him to sit and then praise him for being so good. All the while with my back to the other dog, blocking my dog's sight of it. This works well and is not traumatic.

You aren't rewarding bad behavior..you are changing how he feels about his trigger from negative to positive. Ooh I get really good treats when I see this dog! But he goes away the treats go away. Maybe he isn't so bad after all!

It's called counter conditioning. Perhaps with a trainer ypu can work with your neighbor/dog so he can learn how to ignore!

I think if that's what you're calling it, it needs to be done very carefully with a very good trainer, otherwise you are literally telling your dog "oh you're losing your shit, that's great, have a treat"

Ok it is obvious you didn't understand what I wrote. Dogs who are reactive have very big emotions based on fear and anxiety. You want them to associate the trigger with something good happening. So at first every time you see the trigger you give the dog high value treats. Then the dog will start looking at you for the treat. When the dog is over threshold and is barking and lunging than it is too late. My dog would refuse treats when he was in that state. So there is no reward for 'losing your shit' as you so nicely put it.

The goal is to have the dog not react and therefore you are paying them when they do not react. You then build in distance ( decrease the distance the dog can get to the trigger and duration how long they can be in the presence of the trigger)

If in the end, the behavior you do not want stops what is wrong with rewarding them?

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I think you need to be careful with the timing of treats - you don't want to end up rewarding your dog for bad behaviors.

We had a large poodle who lost his shit all the time with certain dogs (loved others). If on a walk and uncertain of what he'd do, I'd distract him, keep him on the side of me furthest from the other dog, I'd also get him to sit and then praise him for being so good. All the while with my back to the other dog, blocking my dog's sight of it. This works well and is not traumatic.

You aren't rewarding bad behavior..you are changing how he feels about his trigger from negative to positive. Ooh I get really good treats when I see this dog! But he goes away the treats go away. Maybe he isn't so bad after all!

It's called counter conditioning. Perhaps with a trainer ypu can work with your neighbor/dog so he can learn how to ignore!

I think if that's what you're calling it, it needs to be done very carefully with a very good trainer, otherwise you are literally telling your dog "oh you're losing your shit, that's great, have a treat"

Ok it is obvious you didn't understand what I wrote. Dogs who are reactive have very big emotions based on fear and anxiety. You want them to associate the trigger with something good happening. So at first every time you see the trigger you give the dog high value treats. Then the dog will start looking at you for the treat. When the dog is over threshold and is barking and lunging than it is too late. My dog would refuse treats when he was in that state. So there is no reward for 'losing your shit' as you so nicely put it.

The goal is to have the dog not react and therefore you are paying them when they do not react. You then build in distance ( decrease the distance the dog can get to the trigger and duration how long they can be in the presence of the trigger)

If in the end, the behavior you do not want stops what is wrong with rewarding them?

No I totally understood.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I have a dog who is super-friendly and loves all dogs except this one GSD who we occasionally see out on walks. They've never met or even been within 20 ft of each other, but my dog goes absolutely bananas when he sees that GSD. No idea why so we just avoid that dog. If we're out on a walk and see him in the distance, we do an emergency U-turn. Fortunately, that dog does not live next door to us (sorry, OP). Our trainer said that sometimes this happens and the best thing we can do is teach out dog to focus on us when walking.

I do this as much as I can. I never walk by his house, but he always walks his dog by mine, I yes his route. If I see him out the window I’ll close my blinds so my dog doesn’t get a glance. If I’m about to walk my dog I always check to see if he is walking by. If he is I’ll wait until I know he’s down the street and around the corner, and I’ll go in a different direction with mine. But yeah, it’s hard to completely avoid them as they are 2 houses down from me.

It’s not often that we both happen to be outside at the same time with our dogs, but it was really bad yesterday. I’m still thinking about it and I feel terrible about it.

The dog can pick up on your anxiety/tension that you feel from history with this dog, which now will be increased since the incident. I'd practice snapping him out of his reactivity and bringing his focus back to you/calming down, whether indoors or outdoors. Sorry, OP. Sounds like you are doing well with having his place for him to go and he did obey. So you have a good foundation to build on.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:I think you need to be careful with the timing of treats - you don't want to end up rewarding your dog for bad behaviors.

We had a large poodle who lost his shit all the time with certain dogs (loved others). If on a walk and uncertain of what he'd do, I'd distract him, keep him on the side of me furthest from the other dog, I'd also get him to sit and then praise him for being so good. All the while with my back to the other dog, blocking my dog's sight of it. This works well and is not traumatic.

You aren't rewarding bad behavior..you are changing how he feels about his trigger from negative to positive. Ooh I get really good treats when I see this dog! But he goes away the treats go away. Maybe he isn't so bad after all!

It's called counter conditioning. Perhaps with a trainer ypu can work with your neighbor/dog so he can learn how to ignore!

I think if that's what you're calling it, it needs to be done very carefully with a very good trainer, otherwise you are literally telling your dog "oh you're losing your shit, that's great, have a treat"

Ok it is obvious you didn't understand what I wrote. Dogs who are reactive have very big emotions based on fear and anxiety. You want them to associate the trigger with something good happening. So at first every time you see the trigger you give the dog high value treats. Then the dog will start looking at you for the treat. When the dog is over threshold and is barking and lunging than it is too late. My dog would refuse treats when he was in that state. So there is no reward for 'losing your shit' as you so nicely put it.

The goal is to have the dog not react and therefore you are paying them when they do not react. You then build in distance ( decrease the distance the dog can get to the trigger and duration how long they can be in the presence of the trigger)

If in the end, the behavior you do not want stops what is wrong with rewarding them?

No I totally understood.

Ok we disagree them. Giving a reward for not reacting is giving them a reward for doing the right thing. But you think I give a reward when they bark and lunge ( which I do not) when my dog is barking and lunging he has zero interest in food. I have to catch him before.

Still think I'm wrong?